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2 Cartier Santos watches
Blog

The Timeless Elegance of the Cartier Santos Watch Collection

by Chris Greiner on May 06, 2025

The Cartier Santos stands as a paragon of elegance and innovation. Over the decades, the Santos has become an iconic timepiece.

In recent years, the Cartier Santos has experienced a resurgence in popularity. According to a Morgan Stanley report, Cartier witnessed a 40% year-over-year increase from 2020 to 2021, surpassing Omega and securing its position as the second-largest Swiss watch brand. 

Let's find out why the Cartier Santos watch continues to capture the attention of both luxury watch enthusiasts.

What Is a Cartier Santos Watch? 

For its timeless elegance, rich history, and innovative design, the Cartier Santos is one of the most iconic luxury watches in the world. First introduced in 1904, the Cartier Santos watch was designed by Louis Cartier for his friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a timepiece that could be easily read while piloting his aeroplane. 

History of the Brand

The Cartier Santos remains a symbol of sophistication, aviation history, and the brand's pioneering spirit in horology.

  • 1904 – The Birth of the Santos

    • Designed by Louis Cartier for Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviation pioneer

    • Created to allow easy time-reading while flying

    • One of the first purpose-built wristwatches for men

  • 1911 – Public Release

    • Cartier officially launched the Santos watch for public sale.

    • Featured a square case, exposed screws, and Art Deco styling—a bold contrast to traditional round watches

    • Crafted in gold and platinum

  • 1978 – Santos de Cartier

    • Cartier introduced the Santos de Cartier, modernizing the design.

    • Featured a stainless steel and gold combination, making it more accessible

    • Maintained the signature square shape and exposed screws

  • 2004 – 100th Anniversary Edition

    • Cartier released a special edition to celebrate 100 years of the Santos.

    • Featured updated watch movements and refined case designs

  • 2018 – Modern Innovations

    • Cartier introduced a new Santos de Cartier collection.

    • Added the QuickSwitch strap system, allowing easy strap changes

    • Upgraded movements with improved precision and durability

General Specifications and Features of Cartier Santos Watches 

Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos collection features a blend of classic design and modern innovations. While specifications and features vary across different models, here are the general specs and characteristics of Cartier Santos watches:

Case and Design

  • Shape: Square with rounded edges

  • Material: Stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, or two-tone (steel and gold)

  • Size Options:

    • Santos-Dumont: Small, medium, and large (ultra-thin case)

    • Santos de Cartier: Medium (35mm) and Large (39.8mm)

  • Bezel: Smooth or adorned with exposed screws (signature design)

Movement and Functionality

  • Movement Type: Quartz (Santos-Dumont) or Automatic (Santos de Cartier)

  • Automatic Movement: Cartier Caliber 1847 MC (self-winding)

  • Power Reserve: Approx. 40 to 42 hours for automatic models

  • Water Resistance:

    • Santos-Dumont: 30 meters

    • Santos de Cartier: 100 meters

Watch Dial and Hands

  • Dial Colors: Silver, blue, skeletonized, or sunburst finishes

  • Numerals: Roman numerals (Cartier signature design)

  • Hands: Blued-steel sword-shaped hands

  • Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal

Strap and Bracelet

  • Strap Options: Leather (alligator/calfskin) or metal bracelet

  • Bracelet Material: Stainless steel, gold, or two-tone

  • QuickSwitch System: Allows easy strap/bracelet interchangeability

  • SmartLink System: Enables easy bracelet size adjustment without tools (Santos de Cartier models)

Exploring the Cartier Santos Collection

Cartier Santos de Cartier Large Model (Ref. WSSA0029)

Here are some of the most popular Cartier Santos watches. We also included estimated Cartier Santos watch prices

1. Cartier Santos de Cartier Large Model (Ref. WSSA0029)

A contemporary take on the classic Santos design, this large model provides a bold statement on the wrist.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 39.8 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel

    • Movement: Automatic Caliber 1847 MC

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Silvered with Roman numerals

    • Bracelet: Stainless steel with QuickSwitch interchangeability system

  • Key Features:

    • In-house automatic movement with anti-magnetic properties

    • QuickSwitch system for easy strap or bracelet changes

    • Screw-down bezel with exposed screws, a signature of the Santos design

  • Pricing:

    • Brand New: Approximately $7,000

    • Pre-Owned: Around $5,800

2. Cartier Santos-Dumont Large Model (Ref. WSSA0022)

Named after the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, this model embodies the original spirit of the Santos with a sleek and refined design.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 43.5 mm x 31.4 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel

    • Movement: Quartz

    • Water Resistance: 30 meters

    • Dial: Silvered with Roman numerals

    • Strap: Blue alligator leather

  • Key Features:

    • Ultra-slim case profile for a dressier appearance

    • Classic aesthetics reminiscent of the original 1904 design

    • High-autonomy quartz movement for precision and reliability

  • Pricing:

    • Brand New: Approximately $5,600

    • Pre-Owned: Around $4,500

3. Cartier Santos 100 XL Chronograph (Ref. W20090X8)

A robust and sporty iteration, the Santos 100 XL Chronograph combines the iconic Santos design with a chronograph.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 55 mm x 41 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel

    • Movement: Automatic Caliber 8630 (based on ETA 7753)

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Black with three sub-dials

    • Bracelet: Black alligator leather

  • Key Features:

    • Chronograph function with minute and hour counters

    • Bold, oversized case for a commanding wrist presence

    • Exposed screw design on the bezel, maintaining the Santos heritage

  • Pricing:

    • Brand New: Approximately $14,000

    • Pre-Owned: Around $6,200

4. Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton (Ref. WHSA0015)

Showcasing Cartier's mastery in watchmaking, the Skeleton variant offers a mesmerizing view of the movement through its intricately skeletonized dial.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 39.8 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel

    • Movement: Manual-winding Caliber 9611 MC

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Skeletonized with Roman numeral bridges

    • Bracelet: Stainless steel

    • Key Features:

      • Skeletonized movement where bridges form Roman numerals

      • Manual-winding movement with a 72-hour power reserve

      • Transparent case back for an unobstructed view of the movement

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $27,000

      • Pre-Owned: Around $22,000

5. Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition (Ref. WGSA0032)

A tribute to aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, this XL Limited Edition model exemplifies Cartier’s legacy in crafting elegant and refined timepieces. Designed with 18k rose gold, it has a sophisticated aesthetic but maintains the minimalist charm of the Santos-Dumont collection.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 46.6 mm x 33.9 mm

    • Case Material: 18k rose gold

    • Movement: Manual-winding mechanical movement

    • Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours

    • Water Resistance: 30 meters

    • Dial: Silvered sunray finish with Roman numerals

    • Hands: Blued steel sword-shaped hands

    • Strap: Brown alligator leather with an 18k rose gold pin buckle

    • Key Features:

      • Limited edition release

      • Ultra-thin case profile

      • Classic manual-winding movement

      • Elegant rose gold construction

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $14,000

      • Pre-Owned: Around $11,000

6. Cartier Santos de Cartier Medium Model (Ref. WSSA0029)

A versatile and elegantly proportioned timepiece, the medium model offers the classic Santos design in a size suitable for various wrist sizes.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 35.1 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel

    • Movement: Automatic Caliber 1847 MC

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Silvered with Roman numerals

    • Bracelet: Stainless steel with QuickSwitch interchangeability system

    • Key Features:

      • In-house automatic movement with anti-magnetic properties

      • QuickSwitch system for effortless strap or bracelet changes

      • Iconic square case with exposed screws

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $7,050

      • Pre-Owned: Around $5,728

7. Cartier Santos de Cartier Large Two-Tone (Ref. W2SA0009)

This large Cartier watch combines stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, giving it a gleaming, luxurious look.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 39.8 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel and 18k yellow gold

    • Movement: Automatic Caliber 1847 MC

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Silvered in Roman numerals

    • Bracelet: Two-tone stainless steel and 18k yellow gold with QuickSwitch system

    • Key Features:

      • Elegant two-tone design blending steel and gold

      • QuickSwitch system for versatile strap or bracelet options

      • Robust water resistance suitable for daily wear

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $13,000

      • Pre-Owned: Around $10,500

8. Cartier Santos 100 Carbon (Ref. WSSA0006)

A modern and sporty iteration, the Santos 100 Carbon features a sleek, high-tech aesthetic with improved durability.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 51 mm x 43 mm

    • Case Material: ADLC-coated stainless steel

    • Movement: Automatic Caliber 1847 MC

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Black with white Roman numerals

    • Strap: Black fabric

    • Key Features:

      • Amorphous chocolate diamond-Like Carbon (ADLC) coating for scratch resistance

      • Bold black-on-black design with contrasting white numerals

      • Large case size for a commanding wrist presence

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $8,000

      • Pre-Owned: Around $6,700

9. Cartier Santos-Dumont Large Model (Ref. WSSA0046)

A refined and understated timepiece, this model pays tribute to the original Santos-Dumont design with modern enhancements.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 43.5 mm x 31.4 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel

    • Movement: Quartz

    • Water Resistance: 30 meters

    • Dial: Silvered with 2024 in Roman numerals

    • Strap: Black alligator leather

    • Key Features:

      • Slim profile suitable for formal occasions

      • High-autonomy quartz movement ensuring precision

      • Classic design elements honoring the original 1904 model

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $6,000

      • Pre-Owned: Around $4,800

10. Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph (Ref. WSSA0017)

This Cartier Santos watch has the characteristic Santos design with an added chronograph.

  • Technical Specifications:

    • Case Size: 43.3 mm

    • Case Material: Stainless steel with ADLC bezel

    • Movement: Automatic Caliber 1904-CH MC

    • Water Resistance: 100 meters

    • Dial: Silvered with black sub-dials

    • Bracelet: Stainless steel with QuickSwitch system

    • Key Features:

      • Integrated chronograph with column wheel mechanism

      • ADLC-coated bezel for enhanced durability

      • QuickSwitch system for easy bracelet or strap interchangeability

    • Pricing:

      • Brand New: Approximately $9,750

      • Pre-Owned: Around $8,000

Where Can You Buy Authentic New or Pre-Owned Cartier Santos Watches 

You can purchase authentic new or pre-owned Cartier Santos watches from a variety of reputable sources. 

1. Official Cartier Boutiques and Website: The best place to buy a brand-new Cartier Santos is directly from Cartier. Visit an authorized Cartier boutique or purchase online through their website. Buying directly from the company guarantees authenticity, official warranty, and after-sales service.

2. Authorized Luxury Watch Retailers: Stores such as Tourneau, Watches of Switzerland, and Bucherer are authorized Cartier dealers. They offer brand-new Cartier Santos models with manufacturer warranties. You can visit physical stores or check their online platforms.

3. Trusted Online Luxury Watch Marketplaces: These are global platforms with buyer protection. Many specialize in authenticated pre-owned luxury watches with a warranty. Most online marketplaces such as Jestik Collection are known for transparent pricing and authenticity guarantees.

4. Auction Houses: Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips regularly feature vintage and limited-edition Cartier Santos models. Auction houses are perfect for collectors looking for rare or discontinued pieces.

5. Cartier Certified Pre-Owned Program: Cartier offers a Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) program that ensures authenticity and a 12-month international warranty. These are available at Cartier boutiques and select authorized retailers.

7. High-End Jewelry Stores and Department Stores: Stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Harrods often carry new Cartier Santos models.

Things to Watch Out for When Buying a Pre-Owned Cartier Santos:

  • Verify the seller's reputation and check for customer reviews.

  • Make sure the watch has original papers, box, and serial numbers.

  • Look for a return policy and an authenticity guarantee.

  • Be careful of bust down watches. These are high-end luxury watches that have been taken apart and then drilled and filled with aftermarket diamonds. Gemstones may be set by an independent gem-setter instead of being factory-set.

  • Beware of deals that seem too good to be true.

Conclusion

The Cartier Santos is a timepiece that is rich with innovation, sophistication, and enduring style. As Cartier continues to refine and expand the Santos collection, its appeal only grows stronger. The resurgence of Cartier in the luxury watch market, driven by increased demand among younger collectors, further cements the Santos' position as a perfect investment timepiece.

 

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