Durability and aesthetics---two qualities people look for when they choose watches. A well-designed timepiece stands up to everyday wear.
One of the most advanced technologies used to achieve this balance is DLC coating. Originally developed for industrial and aerospace applications, DLC has become a favorite among watchmakers seeking to enhance both the look and performance of their creations.
What exactly is DLC, and why has it become so popular in the watch industry
What is DLC Coating?
DLC, short for Diamond Like Carbon, is a type of thin coating made primarily of carbon.
It is designed to mimic some of the desirable properties of natural diamond. While it isn’t an actual diamond layer, it shares the same key attributes, such as exceptional hardness, low friction, and high wear resistance.
This makes DLC finishes ideal surface treatments for objects exposed to scratches and abrasion, such as watch cases and bracelets.
Structurally, DLC is an amorphous carbon material. It doesn’t have the crystal structure of true diamond but still exhibits similar characteristics due to its unique atomic bonding. It is typically black or dark gray, giving watches a distinct matte or glossy finish depending on the application method.
How DLC Coating is Applied
Applying this diamond like coating to watches is a highly technical process that ensures the coating adheres well and delivers its signature durability. These are the general steps of DLC coating service and technology.
Surface Preparation
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The watch case or bracelet is thoroughly cleaned. It might be given a surface polish or micro-texture.
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This step is crucial because any dust, oil, or imperfection can affect the coating’s adhesion and appearance.
Vacuum Environment
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The components are placed in a sealed vacuum chamber.
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A controlled environment prevents contamination and allows precise deposition of the DLC layer.
Deposition Process
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Most watchmakers use physical vapor deposition (PVD) or chemical vapor deposition (CVD) techniques.
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Carbon atoms are energized and deposited onto the watch’s surface, gradually forming an ultra-thin but extremely hard carbon layer.
Layer Building
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Multiple passes may be made to build up the desired thickness, usually measured in microns.
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The final thickness affects both durability and the visual finish (matte vs. glossy).
Finishing Touches
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After coating, the parts may be polished or lightly finished to achieve the desired texture and sheen.
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Each piece is inspected to ensure uniform coverage and no flaws.
Durability and Wear Resistance
One of the main reasons watchmakers use DLC coating is its exceptional hardness and resistance to wear. DLC coatings often measure 2,000 to 3,000 Vickers hardness (HV), significantly harder than stainless steel (around 200 HV) and even harder than hardened titanium.
However, it’s important to note that DLC is scratch-resistant, not scratch-proof. Sharp impacts from harder materials, such as diamonds or ceramics, can still leave marks. In addition, if the coating is extremely thin or applied poorly, deep scratches that reach the underlying metal can compromise its look and protection.
Aside from scratch resistance, DLC also has a low friction coefficient. It resists abrasion and reduces wear on moving parts or surfaces that may come into contact.
The deep, rich black finish of DLC gives watches a modern, stealthy look that stands out from polished steel or gold. It can be finished in either matte or glossy textures.
Lastly, because DLC is inert and non-reactive, it’s ideal for those with sensitive skin or allergies to certain metals.
Examples of Watches Using DLC Coating
Let's check out some examples of watches that are coated with DLC.
Luxury Brands
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore DLC: A sporty take on the iconic Royal Oak, featuring a stealthy black DLC finish for added durability and a bold aesthetic.
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Hublot Big Bang All Black: One of the earliest high-profile watches to embrace the all-black DLC look, emphasizing Hublot’s fusion of materials and avant-garde design.
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Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon: While technically ceramic-based, Omega has also used DLC coatings on some Speedmaster variants.
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TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford Edition: A collaboration with Bamford Watch Department featuring a DLC-coated titanium case, giving the square chronograph a distinctive modern edge.
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Panerai Luminor 1950 10 Days Ceramica (DLC-coated Titanium versions): Panerai uses DLC to give its already robust tool watches an extra layer of protection while maintaining its bold, military-inspired design.
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IWC Top Gun Pilot’s Watch: IWC’s use of DLC coatings enhances its aviation watches with increased scratch resistance and a tactical, stealthy finish.
More Affordable Options
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Seiko Prospex Black Series (DLC Coated): Seiko offers DLC-coated stainless steel on some of its Prospex diver models, delivering a high-end look and improved durability at a reasonable price point.
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Citizen Eco-Drive Nighthawk DLC: Known for its all-black DLC-coated stainless steel case and bracelet, combining rugged durability with Citizen’s solar-powered technology.
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Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000 Full Metal DLC: A premium G-Shock variant featuring a DLC coating for scratch resistance and a sleek all-black appearance.
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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical DLC: A field watch classic treated with DLC for a modern, tactical look while remaining relatively affordable compared to Swiss luxury options.
Fun Fact: How Are Diamonds Made
Natural diamonds are formed deep within the Earth, about 150 to 200 kilometers below the surface, where extreme heat (over 1,000°C) and immense pressure (around 725,000 pounds per square inch) cause carbon atoms to bond in a unique crystalline structure. These diamonds are then brought closer to the surface through volcanic eruptions, carried by a type of magma known as kimberlite.
Over millions of years, erosion and mining reveal these gems. Interestingly, scientists can now create lab-grown diamonds using similar high-pressure, high-temperature methods or advanced CVD, which mimic the natural conditions but in a controlled environment. This process makes diamonds more accessible and environmentally friendly.
Should You Buy a DLC-Coated Watch?
Yes, buying a DLC-coated watch is worth it. The coating provides superior scratch resistance, corrosion protection, and a sleek, contemporary look that sets it apart from traditional finishes. The coating ensures your watch will look newer for longer and handle daily wear with ease. While it may cost more upfront, the enhanced longevity and distinctive style make it a smart choice for collectors and casual wearers alike.
