How to Set a Watch Correctly

A luxury watch is an elegant piece of engineering and craftsmanship. You want to protect the gears, nuts, bolts, and springs that keep your watch functioning. As such, a watch set process deserves a little finesse. Often, watch owners overlook the importance of correctly setting and handling their timepieces. Yet this simple task can preserve the watch's longevity and precision. 

Each type of watch—manual mechanical, automatic, quartz, or even digital—has its own method for setting the time accurately. For a luxury watch with additional features, or complications, the process is a bit more intricate. Understanding the unique mechanisms within each watch type can make a world of difference in how smoothly it functions.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through how to change the time on a watch safely and properly. You’ll learn not only the basic steps but also the finer details such as avoiding certain times to set complications and the right way to handle the crown and pushers. 

How To Set a Mechanical Watch

Following these steps helps maintain the accuracy and longevity of your timepiece.

1. Wind the watch first: Before setting the time, make sure the watch is wound. To wind it, hold the crown (the small knob on the side of the watch) and turn it clockwise until you feel resistance. Avoid overwinding as it can damage the movement.
2. Pull the crown to the time-setting position: Once the watch is wound, gently pull the crown out to the time-setting position. This is usually the second position when pulled out. On some watches, this will stop the second hand (a feature called hacking) while on others, the second hand keeps moving.
3. Set the time by turning the crown clockwise: Turn the crown slowly and set the time, always moving the hands forward. Avoid setting the time between 9 PM and 3 AM if your watch has a date function as this could disrupt the date change mechanism.
4. Push the crown back in: Once the time is set, gently push the crown back into its original position. This will start the movement again if it had stopped.

How To Set a Quartz Watch

Quartz watches are relatively low maintenance. However, proper clock adjustment helps keep them accurate and minimizes wear on the movement.

1. Pull the crown to the time-setting position: Most quartz watches have a single crown. To set the time, gently pull the crown to the second position. On some quartz watches, pulling the crown out will stop the second hand to allow for more precise time-setting.
2. Set the time by turning the crown: Turn the crown clockwise to adjust the time. Unlike mechanical watches, you can move the hands both forward and backward without risking damage. If your quartz watch has a date function, avoid setting the time between 9 PM and 3 AM as this is when the date-change mechanism is engaged.
3. Push the crown back in: Push the crown back to its original position once you have set the time correctly. This will restart the movement.

How To Set Complications

Setting complications on a watch—features beyond the standard time display—can vary depending on the type and complexity of the watch. 

1. Date and Day Complications
   • Avoid setting between 9 PM and 3 AM: Many watches engage their date-change mechanisms during these hours. Setting the date within this window could damage the movement.
   • Setting the date: Pull the crown to the date-setting position (usually the first click). Turn the crown clockwise until the correct date is displayed. Turning the crown counterclockwise in some watches will adjust the day of the week.
   • Setting the day: Rotate the crown (usually counterclockwise) to adjust the day of the week if this complication is separate from the date.
2. Moon Phase
   • Consult a moon phase calendar: To set the moon phase accurately, know the current phase of the moon (new moon, first quarter, full moon, etc.) to align it correctly.
   • Setting the moon phase: Pull the crown to the moon phase adjustment position (some watches have a separate pusher for this). Slowly turn the crown until the moon phase display matches the current phase. This feature typically only needs adjustment once every 29.5 days.
3. Chronograph (Stopwatch) Functions
   • Start/Stop function: The top pusher (button) is typically used to start and stop the chronograph. Press it once to start timing and again to stop it.
   • Resetting the chronograph: After stopping the chronograph, press the bottom pusher to reset it. Avoid pressing reset while the chronograph is running as this can damage the movement.
4. Annual and Perpetual Calendars
   • Annual Calendar: This complication automatically adjusts for months with 30 or 31 days but requires manual adjustment for February. Follow the same date-setting rules, avoiding adjustments between 9 PM and 3 AM.
   • Perpetual Calendar: These are typically factory-set and automatically adjust for leap years. They rarely need manual intervention. If adjustments are necessary, refer to your watch guide or manual for precise instructions as setting these incorrectly can affect the entire calendar mechanism.
5. Other Specialized Complications (e.g., World Time, GMT):
   • World Time or GMT Hand: Use the crown or a designated pusher to set the second time zone. Align the GMT hand with the desired time zone, taking note of AM/PM.
   • Alarm Function: Pull the crown to the alarm-setting position, then rotate it to set the alarm time, if available.

How To Set a Pocket Watch

Old pocket watches require some care as these timepieces often have delicate mechanical movements. 

1. Locate the crown: The crown on a pocket watch is usually positioned at the top just above the 12 o’clock mark. In most pocket watches, this crown controls both winding and time-setting functions.
2. Wind the watch: Turn the crown clockwise about 20 to 30 times to wind the watch. Stop if you feel any resistance. Winding fully ensures your pocket watch has enough power reserve.
3. Pull the crown to set the time: Gently pull the crown out to the time-setting position. In some older or unique pocket watches, this step may vary slightly—some models have a lever near the 2 or 4 o'clock position that must be pulled out before setting. Refer to your watch’s manual if it has unusual features.
4. Turn the crown to set the time: Rotate the crown to adjust the time, moving the hands clockwise. Some watch experts recommend always setting pocket watches clockwise to reduce strain on the movement.
5. Push the crown back in: Once the time is set, carefully push the crown back into its original position to re-engage the movement. For lever-set pocket watches, push the lever back in, and then press the crown down.
6. Close the cover: For pocket watches with a cover, gently close it without slamming. 

How To Avoid Damage When Setting Your Watch

Watch setting is a pretty straightforward process. However, you do need to watch out for a few things to keep your timepiece in good working condition for a longer period. 

1. Avoid setting complications at certain times: For watches with date or day complications, avoid setting them between 9 PM and 3 AM. During these hours, the date-change mechanism is engaged, and setting the watch could damage the movement.
2. Don’t force the crown or pushers: When pulling or pushing the crown, use a light touch. If you encounter resistance when turning the crown or pressing a pusher, stop immediately to prevent stripping the gears or damaging the movement.
3. Handle the crown gently: Whether winding or setting, turn the crown slowly. For manual and automatic watches, overwinding the crown can damage the mainspring. Wind until you feel light resistance then stop.
4. Set the time forward only: When setting a mechanical watch, move the hands forward (clockwise) rather than backward (counterclockwise). Some watches are designed to handle only forward motion, and reversing the hands may harm the movement.
5. Keep the watch stable: When setting a complicated watch, place it on a stable surface. This reduces the risk of dropping the watch or accidentally pressing a pusher.
6. Read the watch guide or manual for specific complications: Complications such as perpetual calendars, moon phases, and world timers often require specific procedures. Refer to your watch’s manual to ensure you follow the correct steps. Missteps with these features can lead to misalignment or breakage.
7. Keep the crown free of dust and moisture: Be careful of dust particles or moisture entering the movement. This can degrade the watch’s performance over time.

How to Put on a Watch

Putting on a luxury watch is simple. But a bit of extra care goes a long way in preserving its look, feel, and longevity.

1. Prepare a clean, soft surface: Place your watch on a clean, soft surface such as a microfiber cloth or cushion in case you need to set it down or if it accidentally falls. This helps prevent damaging the watch.
2. Select your wrist and fit placement: Most luxury watch wearers choose their non-dominant wrist, which reduces exposure to scratches or knocks. Place the watch just above your wristbone for comfort. This also makes it easy to read the time without needing to bend your wrist.
3. Fasten the strap or bracelet with care:
   • Leather or alligator straps: Insert the strap through the buckle and adjust it to your ideal hole, which should feel secure but not too tight. Tuck the excess into any loops to keep it in place.
   • Deployant or butterfly clasp: For a clasp, position the watch, close the clasp by pressing it down, and listen for a click. Some luxury watches have a double-locking mechanism, so ensure each part of the clasp is fastened securely.
   • Bracelet with links: If your watch has a metal bracelet, it should be adjusted for your wrist size ahead of time. Secure the clasp with a gentle press, ensuring both sides of a butterfly clasp click into place if applicable.
4. Check the fit without over-tightening: The watch should feel secure but comfortable, allowing slight movement. A well-fitted luxury watch lets you slide a finger between the strap and your wrist. Over-tightening can leave marks on your wrist or restrict circulation while too loose a fit may cause the watch to slip and fall.
5. Final polish: After fastening, use a clean microfiber cloth to wipe away any fingerprints, particularly if your watch has a polished or glossy finish. This keeps it looking pristine and maintains its luxurious appearance throughout the day.

Conclusion

Setting a watch may seem like a straightforward task, but as you’ve discovered, there’s a little bit of care that goes beyond simply adjusting the hands. By taking a few extra moments to set your watch carefully, you keep the gears running. The watch keeps its accuracy. You prevent damaging your investment. Proper clock adjustment definitely goes a long way.