The Elegance of the Patek Nautilus Watch

Undoubtedly, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is one of the world's most iconic luxury sports watches. It has a distinctive porthole-shaped case with an integrated bracelet, a bold departure from the traditional designs of the time.

The Nautilus beautifully blends elegance and sportiness, making the timepiece ideal for casual and formal occasions. It features exceptional craftsmanship, high-quality materials, and intricate mechanical movements, all hallmarks of Patek Philippe's long-standing reputation for excellence.

The Nautilus collection includes various models. Over the years, it has become a symbol of status and sophistication, highly sought after by collectors and watch enthusiasts worldwide. 

History of the Patek Nautilus Collection

The Patek Philippe Nautilus collection has a rich and storied history that traces back to the mid-1970s. Here’s an overview of its evolution:

1. The Birth of the Nautilus (1976)

• The Patek Nautilus was designed by Gérald Genta, a legendary watch designer who had already revolutionized the luxury sports watch market with his creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1972.
• Despite its elegance, the design of the Nautilus was inspired by the simple shape of a ship's porthole. Genta famously sketched the design on a napkin while dining near the Patek Philippe executives. The watch featured a distinctive rounded octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet, which was quite radical during that time.
• His first model, the Reference 3700/1, was launched in 1976. It was marketed as a luxury sports watch with the slogan, "One of the world's costliest watches is made of steel." This was a bold statement, especially since luxury watches at the time were typically made of precious metals.

2. The Original Reference 3700/1

• The original Reference 3700/1 had a large 42mm case, which earned it the nickname "Jumbo" due to its size, which was considered oversized for that era.
• The watch was powered by the ultra-thin automatic movement Caliber 28-255 C. This was based on Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, which was also used in the Royal Oak.
• The Reference 3700/1 featured a minimalist black or blue dial with horizontal embossing, which eventually became a signature of the Nautilus design. The case was made of stainless steel, further emphasizing its sporty, yet luxurious nature.

3. Expanding the Collection (1980s-1990s)

• In 1981, Patek Philippe introduced the Reference 3800, a smaller version of the original Nautilus with a 37.5mm case. This was for customers who preferred a more traditionally sized watch.
• Over the years, Patek Philippe expanded the Nautilus collection including the Reference 3710/1A, introduced in 1998, which featured a power reserve indicator.
• The brand also began to introduce versions of the Nautilus in precious metals such as gold and platinum, catering to different tastes and further establishing the collection’s luxury status.

4. The 30th Anniversary and the Modern Era (2006-Present)

• In 2006, to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe introduced the Reference 5711/1A. This model returned to the larger 42mm size of the original but featured a slightly updated design with a three-part case construction and a sapphire case back to showcase the movement.
• The Reference 5980/1A was also introduced in 2006. This timepiece features a chronograph complication, marking the first time the Nautilus housed such a function.
• In subsequent years, the Nautilus collection continued to evolve, with the introduction of models featuring moon phase indicators, annual calendars, and even a perpetual calendar in the Reference 5740/1G, introduced in 2018.

5. Cultural Impact and Legacy

• The Nautilus has become one of the most sought-after and iconic watches in the world. Its sporty elegance, exclusivity, and historical significance have made it a favorite among collectors, celebrities, businessmen, and people of class.
• The discontinuation of certain models, like the Reference 5711/1A in 2021, sent shockwaves through the watch world, leading to skyrocketing demand and prices on the secondary market.
• In 2021, Patek Philippe introduced a green-dialed version of the 5711/1A, and later, the final 5711/1A with a Tiffany-blue dial. This marked the end of an era for this iconic reference.

Design Features of the Patek Nautilus Watch

The renowned Patek Philippe Nautilus features a distinctive elegant, sporty design. Let's check out the general design features that define the Nautilus watch:

1. Case Shape

• Porthole-Inspired Design: The Nautilus case is famously inspired by the shape of a ship's porthole, a nod to the watch's nautical theme. It features a unique and iconic rounded octagonal bezel.
• Integrated Case and Bracelet: The case and bracelet are designed as a cohesive unit, with no visible lugs. This gives the watch a streamlined, modern appearance.

2. Bezel

• Rounded Octagonal Bezel: The bezel is a hallmark of the Nautilus design. Its rounded octagonal shape is both distinctive and elegant, setting it apart from the usual round or square bezels seen in other watches.
• Polished and Satin Finishes: The bezel features a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishes.

3. Dial

• Horizontal Embossing: The dial of the Nautilus features horizontal embossing or grooves, which has become a signature element of the watch. This texture adds visual interest and a sense of depth to the dial.
• Simple and Clean Layout: The dial design is uncluttered, with baton-style hour markers and simple, elegant, and luminescent hands.
• Date Window: Many Nautilus models include a discreet date window, usually positioned at 3 o'clock.

4. Bracelet

• Integrated Bracelet: The Nautilus features an integrated bracelet that seamlessly flows from the case. 
• Tapered Links: The bracelet has wide, horizontally aligned links that taper as they move away from the case.
• Polished and Brushed Finishes: Similar to the bezel, the bracelet often features a combination of polished and brushed finishes, emphasizing the watch's luxurious nature.

5. Materials

• Stainless Steel: The original Nautilus was crafted in stainless steel, which was unconventional for a luxury watch at the time. This choice highlighted the watch's sporty and durable character.
• Precious Metals: Over the years, Patek Philippe has expanded the Nautilus collection to include models made from precious metals such as white gold, rose gold, and platinum, catering to a range of tastes.
• Two-Tone and Diamond-Set Variants: The collection also includes two-tone models (combining stainless steel with gold) and versions with diamond-set bezels for added luxury.

6. Case Back

• Sapphire Crystal Case Back: Modern Nautilus models often feature a sapphire crystal case back, allowing the wearer to admire the intricate movement within. This transparent case back highlights Patek Philippe's craftsmanship and attention to detail.

7. Water Resistance

• Sporty Water Resistance: The Nautilus was designed as a luxury sports watch, and many models offer water resistance, typically up to 120 meters (12 bar), making it suitable for swimming and other water activities.

8. Size

• Variety of Case Sizes: The Nautilus has been produced in various sizes over the years, from the original "Jumbo" 42mm to smaller and more modern interpretations in different sizes, accommodating different wrist sizes and preferences.

9. Crown

• Screw-Down Crown: To ensure water resistance, the Nautilus features a screw-down crown, which is often protected by lateral guards that extend from the case.

How Did the Patek Nautilus 5711 Become Iconic?

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 rose to prominence due to several reasons:

1. Heritage and Design

• Connection to the Original Nautilus (Ref. 3700/1A): The 5711 is a direct descendant of the original Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A. This connection to one of the most influential designs in watch history gave the 5711 instant credibility and desirability among collectors.
• Classic Aesthetic: The 5711 retained the key design elements that made the original Nautilus so distinctive, such as the rounded octagonal bezel, porthole-inspired case, and integrated bracelet. These timeless features ensured that the 5711 would be appealing to both vintage watch enthusiasts and modern collectors.

2. Launch and Reception

• 30th Anniversary Edition (2006): The Nautilus 5711 was introduced in 2006 to mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection. The watch was positioned as a modern interpretation of the original. It has subtle updates that enhance its appeal without straying from the classic design.
• Positive Critical Reception: Upon its release, the 5711 received widespread acclaim for its refined design, high-quality craftsmanship, and the balance it struck between luxury and sportiness. 

3. Exclusivity and Scarcity

• Limited Production: Patek Philippe intentionally limited the production of the Nautilus 5711. The scarcity of the watch fueled demand and contributed to its mystique.
• Long Waitlists: The difficulty in acquiring a 5711 added to its allure. Long waitlists became a hallmark of the watch, with some collectors waiting years to obtain one. This scarcity increased its desirability and status.

4. Cultural and Celebrity Influence5711

• Celebrity Endorsement: The Nautilus 5711 became a favorite among celebrities, athletes, and influential figures in various industries. High-profile individuals such as Brad Pitt, Jay-Z, and others were often seen wearing the 5711.
• Pop Culture References: The watch also made appearances in various media and pop culture, which expanded its reputation as a symbol of luxury and success.

5. Market Impact and Value Appreciation

• Rising Secondary Market Prices: The 5711 became one of the most sought-after watches on the secondary market, with prices skyrocketing far above the original retail price. 
• Auction Success: The 5711 consistently performed well at auctions, often fetching prices well above estimates. 

6. Discontinuation and Final Editions

• 2021 Discontinuation: In 2021, Patek Philippe announced the discontinuation of the Nautilus 5711, particularly the stainless steel version with the blue dial. This announcement caused a surge in demand as collectors scrambled to acquire the last remaining pieces.
• Final Editions: To mark the end of the 5711, Patek Philippe released a green-dialed version and later, a Tiffany-blue dial version, which became instant collector’s items. The Tiffany-blue dial fetched record prices at auction.

7. Timeless Appeal

• Blend of Elegance and Sportiness: The Patek 5711 perfectly captures the blend of elegance and sportiness that has defined the Nautilus line. It's a favorite among those who appreciate understated luxury.
• Symbol of Status: Owning a 5711 became a symbol of status, taste, and exclusivity.

8. Influence on the Watch Industry

• Impact on Luxury Sports Watches: The success of the Patek Nautilus 5711 had a ripple effect across the watch industry, inspiring other brands to revisit and reimagine their own luxury sports watches. The 5711 set a standard for what a modern luxury sports watch could be, influencing design trends and market strategies.

Comparing the 5711 to Other Nautilus Models

Let's make a few comparisons between Patek Nautilus 5711 and other notable models within the Nautilus collection:

1. Nautilus 5711 vs. Nautilus 3700/1A (Original Model)

Heritage and Design

• 5711: Introduced in 2006, the 5711 is a modern reinterpretation of the original 3700/1A. It features a 40mm case, slightly larger than the original, and a sapphire crystal case back to display the movement.
• 3700/1A: Launched in 1976, the 3700/1A, known as the "Jumbo," had a larger 42mm case. It lacked a sapphire case back, with a solid case back instead.

Movement

• 5711: Powered by the reliable and precise Patek Philippe Caliber 324 SC, a modern automatic movement with a central rotor
• 3700/1A: Used the ultra-thin Caliber 28-255 C, based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 920 and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Design Evolution

• 5711: The 5711 features minor updates to the original design such as a more robust case construction and improved water resistance (120 meters compared to 120 meters in the original).
• 3700/1A: The original design set the standard for luxury sports watches with its integrated bracelet and porthole-inspired case.

2. Nautilus 5711 vs. Nautilus 5726

Complications

• 5711: The 5711 is a time-and-date-only model with a clean and minimalist design.
• 5726: Introduced in 2010, the 5726 features an annual calendar complication with moon phases, adding a layer of functionality. It displays the day, date, and month, automatically adjusting for months with 30 and 31 days.

Dial Layout

• 5711: The dial of the 5711 has a horizontal embossing and a simple, balanced layout with just a date window at 3 o’clock.
• 5726: The 5726 has a more complex dial, with sub-dials for the calendar and moon phase indicators. 

Thickness and Case Size

• 5711: The 5711 is sleeker with a case thickness of around 8.3mm.
• 5726: The 5726 is slightly thicker, around 11.3mm, due to the additional complications, making it bulkier on the wrist.

3. Nautilus 5711 vs. Nautilus 5990/1A

Functionality

• 5711: The 5711 is straightforward with its focus on telling time and date, making it a purist’s choice.
• 5990/1A: Introduced in 2014, the 5990/1A is much more complex, featuring dual time zones, a chronograph, and a date function. 

Dial Complexity

• 5711: The 5711’s dial is simple, with only the essential hour, minute, second, and date functions.
• 5990/1A: The 5990/1A has a multi-layered dial with sub-dials for the chronograph and a second time zone.

Case and Thickness

• 5711: The 5711’s case is slimmer, making it more versatile and comfortable for everyday wear.
• 5990/1A: The 5990/1A is thicker and more robust due to the additional complications with a thickness of around 12.53mm.

4. Nautilus 5711 vs. Nautilus 5740/1G

Material and Complications

• 5711: The 5711 is made of stainless steel, emphasizing its sporty and simple yet luxurious nature.
• 5740/1G: Introduced in 2018, the 5740/1G is made of white gold and is the first Nautilus model to feature a perpetual calendar. It automatically adjusts for leap years and varying month lengths.

Elegance vs. Sportiness

• 5711: The 5711 strikes a perfect balance between sportiness and elegance.
• 5740/1G: The 5740/1G leans more towards elegance with its precious metal construction and complex perpetual calendar.

Price Point

• 5711: Generally more accessible than the 5740/1G though prices have surged due to its discontinuation and high demand
• 5740/1G: Positioned at a higher price point due to its precious metal case and advanced complications.

5. Nautilus 5711 vs. Nautilus 5980/1A

Chronograph Function

• 5711: The 5711 does not have a chronograph function.
• 5980/1A: Introduced in 2006 alongside the 5711, the 5980/1A features a flyback chronograph, which is a significant complication for timing events. It has a unique monocounter at 6 o’clock that tracks elapsed minutes and hours.

Dial Layout and Design

• 5711: The 5711’s dial is uncluttered and simple.
• 5980/1A: The 5980/1A’s dial is more complex due to the chronograph function with additional sub-dials and pushers on the case side for controlling the chronograph.

Thickness and Wearability

• 5711: The 5711 is thinner and more subtle, ideal for those who prefer a low-profile watch.
• 5980/1A: The 5980/1A is thicker and has a more robust presence on the wrist due to the chronograph movement.

Different Models in the Nautilus Collection

The Patek Philippe Nautilus collection includes a range of models. Here's a rundown of the key models in the Nautilus collection:

1. Nautilus 5711/1A

• Type: Time and date only
• Material: Stainless steel
• Features:
  • 40mm case diameter
  • Blue or white dial with horizontal embossing
  • Date window at 3 o’clock
  • Sapphire crystal case back
• Unique Characteristics: The 5711/1A is the quintessential Nautilus model with a simple, elegant design and iconic status. It is the most recognizable model in the collection.

2. Nautilus 5712/1A

• Type: Complication (Moon phase, power reserve, date)
• Material: Stainless steel
• Features:
  • 40mm case diameter
  • Asymmetrical dial with moon phase, date, and power reserve indicators
  • Sub-dial layout that gives the watch a unique aesthetic
• Unique Characteristics: The 5712/1A has an asymmetrical dial, adding a unique visual interest. It's a favorite for people who appreciate additional complications without overwhelming the design.

3. Nautilus 5726/1A

• Type: Annual calendar with moon phase
• Material: Stainless steel
• Features:
  • 40.5mm case diameter
  • Displays day, date, and month with a moon phase indicator
  • Annual calendar complication, which only needs adjustment once a year in February
• Unique Characteristics: The 5726/1A combines the sporty Nautilus design with the practicality of an annual calendar, making it a perfect blend of form and function.

4. Nautilus 5980/1A

• Type: Chronograph
• Material: Stainless steel
• Features:
  • 40.5mm case diameter
  • Flyback chronograph with a monocounter at 6 o’clock that tracks elapsed minutes and hours
  • Date window at 3 o’clock
• Unique Characteristics: The 5980/1A is the chronograph version of the Nautilus, designed for those who need a stopwatch function. 

5. Nautilus 5990/1A

• Type: Travel time chronograph
• Material: Stainless steel
• Features:
  • 40.5mm case diameter
  • Dual time zone function with day/night indicators
  • Chronograph and date functions
  • Travel Time complication allows for easy adjustment of the local time while keeping track of home time
• Unique Characteristics: The 5990/1A is perfect for frequent travelers, offering the practicality of a dual time zone function combined with the utility of a chronograph.

6. Nautilus 5740/1G

• Type: Perpetual calendar
• Material: White gold
• Features:
  • 40mm case diameter
  • Displays day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase
  • Perpetual calendar complication that automatically adjusts for leap years and varying month lengths
• Unique Characteristics: The 5740/1G is the first Nautilus model to feature a perpetual calendar, making it one of the most sophisticated and luxurious models in the collection.

7. Nautilus 5719/10G

• Type: Haute Joaillerie (Full pave diamond)
• Material: White gold with diamonds
• Features:
  • 40mm case diameter
  • Fully set with baguette-cut diamonds on the case, bracelet, and dial
  • Date window at 3 o’clock
• Unique Characteristics: The 5719/10G is an ultra-luxurious version of the Nautilus, fully adorned with diamonds. It’s designed for those who want a statement piece that speaks volumes on opulence and extravagance.

8. Nautilus 7118/1A

• Type: Ladies' Nautilus
• Material: Stainless steel, rose gold
• Features:
  • 35.2mm case diameter
  • Available in various dial colors, including blue, silver, and brown
  • Date window at 6 o’clock
• Unique Characteristics: The 7118/1A is designed specifically for women, with a slightly smaller case size and a range of dial colors. It maintains the Nautilus design language while offering a more feminine touch.

9. Nautilus 7018/1A

• Type: Ladies' Nautilus with diamonds
• Material: Stainless steel, rose Gold
• Features:
  • 33.6mm case diameter
  • Diamond-set bezel
  • Various dial options, including mother-of-pearl and opaline dials
• Unique Characteristics: The 7018/1A combines the sporty Nautilus aesthetic with the elegance of diamonds.

10. Nautilus 5990/1R

• Type: Travel Time Chronograph
• Material: Rose Gold
• Features:
  • 40.5mm case diameter
  • Dual time zone function with day/night indicators
  • Chronograph and date functions
  • Travel Time complication allows for easy adjustment of the local time while keeping track of home time
• Unique Characteristics: The 5990/1R is a luxurious version of the 5990/1A, offering the same complications but in a more opulent rose gold case.

11. Nautilus 7118/1200R

• Type: Ladies' Nautilus with moon phases
• Material: Rose gold
• Features:
  • 33.6mm case diameter
  • Moon phase and date display at 6 o’clock
  • Rose gold bracelet with a fold-over clasp
• Unique Characteristics: The 7118/1200R is a refined and elegant option for women, combining the practicality of a moon phase complication with the luxury of rose gold.

Pricing of Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches

As of 2024, here’s a general overview of the Patek Philippe Nautilus price range:

1. Nautilus 5711/1A

• Retail Price: Approximately $30,000 - $35,000 (before discontinuation)
• Secondary Market Price: $150,000 - $200,000+

2. Nautilus 5712/1A

• Retail Price: Approximately $45,000 - $50,000
• Secondary Market Price: $120,000 - $180,000+

3. Nautilus 5726/1A

• Retail Price: Approximately $50,000 - $60,000
• Secondary Market Price: $100,000 - $140,000+

4. Nautilus 5980/1A

• Retail Price: Approximately $65,000 - $70,000
• Secondary Market Price: $130,000 - $180,000+

5. Nautilus 5990/1A

• Retail Price: Approximately $70,000 - $80,000
• Secondary Market Price: $160,000 - $200,000+

6. Nautilus 5740/1G

• Retail Price: Approximately $120,000 - $130,000
• Secondary Market Price: $250,000 - $350,000+

7. Nautilus 5719/10G

• Retail Price: Approximately $350,000 - $400,000
• Secondary Market Price: $500,000+

8. Nautilus 7118/1A (Ladies')

• Retail Price: Approximately $35,000 - $40,000
• Secondary Market Price: $50,000 - $80,000+

9. Nautilus 5740/1G (Perpetual Calendar)

• Retail Price: Approximately $120,000 - $130,000
• Secondary Market Price: $250,000 - $350,000+

10. Nautilus 5990/1R (Rose Gold Travel Time Chronograph)

• Retail Price: Approximately $120,000 - $130,000
• Secondary Market Price: $200,000 - $300,000+

Factors Affecting Pricing

• Rarity: Discontinued models, like the 5711/1A, command much higher prices on the secondary market due to their scarcity.
• Complications: Models with more complications are typically more expensive.
• Materials: Watches made from precious metals or adorned with gems are significantly more expensive than those in stainless steel.
• Market Demand: The Nautilus line has become highly coveted, with long waiting lists at retail. This demand drives up secondary market prices considerably.

Ensuring You Are Getting an Authentic Philippe Nautilus Watch

Ensuring that you're getting an authentic Patek Philippe Nautilus watch is important given the high value and demand for these timepieces. Counterfeit watches have become increasingly sophisticated, making it essential to take several precautions before purchasing. 

1. Buy from authorized dealers or reputable sources.

• Purchasing from an authorized Patek Philippe dealer is the safest way to ensure authenticity. Authorized dealers have direct relationships with the brand and offer full warranties and after-sales service.
• If buying from the secondary market, choose dealers with a solid reputation and positive customer reviews. Established watch boutiques and auction houses like Sotheby’s or Christie’s are generally reliable.

2. Verify the seller's credentials.

• Look for reviews and ratings from previous customers. Check for any complaints or reports of counterfeit sales.
• Ask the seller for proof of the watch's origin such as receipts, certificates, and service records. These documents should match the watch’s serial number.

3. Examine the packaging and documentation.

• Authentic Nautilus watches come with high-quality packaging including a branded box, manuals, and warranty papers. The quality of the packaging should match the luxury status of the watch.
• Patek Philippe watches come with a warranty certificate that includes the watch’s serial number, reference number, and the dealer’s information. The details on the card should match the watch.

4. Inspect the watch in detail.

• Authentic Nautilus watches are made with high-quality materials and have a substantial weight. The finishing should be immaculate with no rough edges or imperfections.
• Patek Philippe movements are highly detailed, with exquisite finishing, visible through the case back in many models. Look for the Patek Philippe seal, which guarantees the movement meets the brand’s stringent quality standards.
• The dial should have perfect alignment with clear, crisp printing. The hands should move smoothly with no jerking or misalignment.

5. Check the serial and reference numbers.

• The watch’s serial number should be engraved clearly on the case. It should match the number on the paperwork.
• The reference number, which identifies the specific model, should also match the details provided in the documentation.

6. Use online tools and resources.

• You can request an extract from the Patek Philippe Archives, which provides details about the watch’s origin and history. This service is available directly from Patek Philippe and helps confirm the watch’s authenticity.
• Engaging with online watch communities can provide valuable insights. Experienced collectors and enthusiasts often share tips and warnings about specific sellers or counterfeit models.

7. Consider a professional authentication service.

• If in doubt, consider using a third-party authentication service. Companies like WatchBox or Crown & Caliber offer professional assessments, making sure the watch is genuine before completing the purchase.
• If possible, have the watch examined by a qualified watchmaker or take it to a Patek Philippe service center. They can open the case to inspect the movement and confirm authenticity.

8. Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true.

• Nautilus watches are in high demand and rarely discounted. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Always be cautious of deals that deviate significantly from the market value.
• Exercise caution when buying from online marketplaces like eBay or Craigslist. These platforms can be risky due to the potential for counterfeit goods.

9. Examine the watch’s provenance.

• A well-documented service history can add to the watch's credibility. Patek Philippe service centers should be able to verify the watch's history if it has been serviced by them.
• Knowing the watch's previous owners or history can provide additional assurance of its authenticity.

10. Trust your instincts.

• If something feels off or you have doubts about the transaction, it’s better to walk away. Trusting your instincts is important when making a high-value purchase.

Conclusion

Is the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch a good investment? Undeniably! The PP Nautilus has an iconic design and has a renowned status as a symbol of luxury and exclusivity. Its limited production runs and the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into each timepiece make it a prized asset in the industry of horology. The Nautilus’s enduring appeal is not just about its aesthetics; it’s also about the intrinsic value of owning a piece of watchmaking history.