The right watches show off their wearers' personality and style. And if there’s one type that really stands out, it’s the skeleton face watch. With its openwork design, the skeleton watch puts the mechanics on full display, turning the movement into a piece of art. Several brands have taken this concept to the next level, creating stunning timepieces that blend craftsmanship with cutting-edge design.
Watching the gears and springs in motion is mesmerizing. Every little detail showcases fine craftsmanship. If you’ve ever been curious about what makes open face watches tick, a skeleton watch gives you a front-row seat to the magic of timekeeping.
What is a Skeleton Watch?
A skeleton watch is a timepiece designed to showcase the intricate mechanics of its movement by exposing the inner workings through a transparent dial, case back, or both. Unlike traditional watches, which conceal their movement beneath a solid dial, skeleton watches strip away unnecessary components, allowing wearers to admire the delicate interplay of gears, springs, and levers.
Special Features of a Skeleton Watch
These see through watches stand out due to their exposed movements. While there may be many brands and models, these are the general special features that define these timepieces:
1. Openwork or Skeletonized Movement: The most defining feature of a skeleton watch is its skeletonized movement. Non-essential material is removed from the main plate and bridges. This allows wearers to see the gears, escapement, and balance wheel in motion.
2. Transparent Dial and Case Back: Many skeleton watches feature a transparent sapphire crystal dial and case back, providing a full view of the movement from both the front and back. Some models forego the dial entirely, with the movement itself serving as the visual centerpiece.
3. Intricate Hand-Finishing: High-end skeleton watches feature hand-finished detailing such as beveled edges, guilloché patterns, or engraved bridges. These fine embellishments enhance the aesthetic appeal and reflect the watchmaker's craftsmanship.
4. Mechanical or Automatic Movement: Most skeleton watches use mechanical or automatic movements. That's because their intricate components are more visually captivating than quartz movements. The oscillating balance wheel and moving gears create a dynamic visual experience.
5. Architectural and Artistic Design: Skeleton watches come in a variety of styles, from classic and ornate (like those from Vacheron Constantin or Breguet) to modern and avant-garde (such as Richard Mille or Hublot). The designs incorporate geometric cutouts, layered movements, and futuristic aesthetics.
6. Limited Production and Exclusivity: Due to the complexity of skeletonization, these watches are usually produced in limited numbers. Collectors appreciate them as both functional timepieces and miniature works of art.
Our Top Recommended Men's Luxury Skeleton Watches
Here are our top 10 recommendations for the best skeleton watches for men.
1. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked combines the iconic Royal Oak design with a mesmerizing open-worked movement.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 41mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k pink gold
- Movement: Caliber 3132 automatic
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Unique Features:
- Dual balance wheel system for improved accuracy
- Exquisitely hand-finished openworked movement
- Iconic octagonal bezel with exposed screws
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $76,000
- Pre-Owned: Varies based on condition and demand; typically around $70,000
Appreciation Value: Historically, Royal Oak models have appreciated by approximately 10 to 20% over the past decade
2. Patek Philippe Calatrava Skeleton 5180/1R
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Skeleton 5180/1R is a testament to the brand's mastery in combining elegance with intricate craftsmanship. This skeleton face watch features a fully skeletonized movement encased in luxurious rose gold.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 39mm
- Case Material: 18k rose gold
- Movement: Caliber 240 SQU automatic
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Ultra-thin movement with micro-rotor
- Hand-engraved bridges and plates
- Rose gold bracelet seamlessly integrated into the case
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $114,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $100,000, depending on condition
Appreciation Value: Patek Philippe watches have shown a steady appreciation of about 5 to 10% annually, with certain rare models increasing even more.
3. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Skeleton Perpetual Calendar
This masterpiece from Vacheron Constantin has a perpetual calendar viewable with the allure of a skeletonized design, showcasing the brand's dedication to haute horlogerie.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 41mm
- Case Material: 18k white or pink gold
- Movement: Caliber 1120 QPSQ automatic
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized perpetual calendar complication
- Ultra-thin movement design
- Meticulous hand-finishing and engraving
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $140,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $125,000, subject to condition
Appreciation Value: Vacheron Constantin's limited-production models have appreciated by about 10 to 15% over recent years.
4. Richard Mille RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire
The RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire is a groundbreaking timepiece with a fully transparent sapphire crystal case, allowing an unobstructed view of its intricate tourbillon movement.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 50.5mm x 42.7mm x 16.75mm
- Case Material: Sapphire crystal
- Movement: Manual winding tourbillon
- Power Reserve: 70 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Fully transparent sapphire case
- Limited edition of 5 pieces
- Lightweight yet robust construction
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $2 million
- Pre-Owned: Prices vary; often higher due to rarity
Appreciation Value: Limited editions like the RM 056 have seen appreciation rates exceeding 20% annually.
5. Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Skeleton Titanium
Hublot's Classic Fusion Tourbillon Skeleton Titanium is a contemporary take on skeletonization. It has a striking open-worked design housed in a modern titanium case.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 45mm
- Case Material: Titanium
- Movement: Manual winding tourbillon
- Power Reserve: 115 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized dial revealing the tourbillon mechanism
- Satin-finished and polished titanium case
- Transparent case back
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $85,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $60,000 to $70,000
Appreciation Value: Hublot’s tourbillon models generally hold value well, with an appreciation potential of 5 to 10%.
6. Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton
The Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton pays homage to the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, blending the iconic square design with a skeletonized movement.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 43.3mm x 31.4mm
- Case Material: 18k pink gold or stainless steel
- Movement: Manual winding Caliber 9611 MC
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized bridges forming Roman numerals
- Distinctive square case with exposed screws
- Blue sapphire cabochon crown
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $61,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $55,000
Appreciation Value: Cartier watches have shown a steady appreciation of about 5 to 10% over recent years.
7. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Squelette
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Squelette exemplifies the brand's expertise in creating ultra-thin movements. The timepiece has an exquisitely skeletonized design that highlights its mechanical sophistication.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 38mm
- Case Material: 18k white or pink gold
- Movement: Manual winding Caliber 849ASQ
- Power Reserve: 33 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Ultra-thin profile at just 3.6mm thick
- Hand-engraved movement with intricate detailing
- Openworked dial showcasing the gear train
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $58,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $50,000
Appreciation Value: Jaeger-LeCoultre's limited-production models have appreciated by about 5 to 10% over recent years.
8. Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon
The Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon combines contemporary design forged with horological excellence. It has a skeletonized movement and a flying tourbillon within a modern, oversized case.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 45mm
- Case Material: Titanium or rose gold
- Movement: Manual winding Caliber UN-171
- Power Reserve: 170 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock
- Modern skeletonized design with large Roman numerals
- Extended power reserve of 7 days
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $38,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $30,000
Appreciation Value: Ulysse Nardin watches have shown a modest appreciation of about 5% per year.
9. Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon stands out with its avant-garde design, featuring a skeletonized movement suspended within a bold, sporty case.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 45mm
- Case Material: Black DLC titanium
- Movement: Manual winding Caliber RD505SQ
- Power Reserve: 60 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Unique Features:
- Openworked movement with star-shaped bridge
- Flying tourbillon at 7:30 position
- Skeletonized flange and hands
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $150,000
- Pre-Owned: Around $130,000
Appreciation Value: Roger Dubuis' limited-edition models have appreciated by about 10 to 15% over recent years.
10. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang SORAI
The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang SORAI is a limited-edition timepiece supporting rhino conservation efforts It has a distinctive grey ceramic case and a skeletonized movement.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 42mm
- Case Material: Microblasted and polished grey ceramic
- Movement: HUB4700 automatic skeleton chronograph
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized dial with rhino motif
- Limited edition supporting SORAI (Save Our Rhinos Africa India)
- Interchangeable straps with camouflage pattern
Price:
- Brand New: Approximately $26,200
- Pre-Owned: Around $22,000
Appreciation Value: Hublot limited editions, especially collaborations like this, have shown an appreciation value of 5 to 10% over time, though demand and rarity play a key role in resale value.
Our Top Recommended Women's Luxury Skeleton Watches
For the best women’s luxury skeleton watches, here's our beautiful selection.
1. Cartier Pasha de Cartier Skeleton
The Cartier Pasha de Cartier Skeleton is an exquisite timepiece, featuring a skeletonized dial with bold Arabic numerals carved from the movement itself. This watch is a true statement of luxury.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 35mm
- Case Material: 18K rose gold or stainless steel
- Movement: Cartier 9624 MC manual-winding skeleton
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized dial where numerals are part of the movement
- Sapphire crystal case back for full visibility of movement
- Blue sapphire cabochon crown, a signature Cartier element
Price:
- Brand New: $68,000 (for 18K gold)
- Pre-Owned: $50,000 to $55,000
Appreciation Value: Cartier skeleton watches tend to appreciate by 5 to 12%.
2. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon Skeleton
Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon Skeleton redefines luxury with its iconic snake-inspired design. The skeletonized dial showcases a miniaturized movement, making it one of the smallest tourbillon skeleton watches for women.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 34mm
- Case Material: 18K rose gold or white gold with diamonds
- Movement: BVL 150 manual-winding skeletonized tourbillon
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Serpenti-shaped case with diamond-set bezel
- Skeletonized dial with exposed tourbillon at 6 o’clock
- Ultra-thin tourbillon movement designed for small watches
Price:
- Brand New: $140,000
- Pre-Owned: $95,000 to $110,000
Appreciation Value: High-end Bulgari models have shown appreciation of 8 to 15%, especially limited editions.
3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is a skeletonized masterpiece that perfectly balances technical innovation with feminine elegance. With a slim profile and an open-worked movement, it is among the finest open face watches that embody the spirit of haute horology.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 37mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel or 18K rose gold
- Movement: Caliber 3132 self-winding skeletonized
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Unique Features:
- Openworked movement with dual balance wheels for higher precision
- Signature Royal Oak octagonal bezel with exposed screws
- Sapphire crystal back showcasing intricate movement details
Price:
- Brand New: $90,000 to $120,000
- Pre-Owned: $75,000 to $95,000
Appreciation Value: Audemars Piguet skeleton watches have appreciated by 10 to 20%, especially in stainless steel due to high demand.
4. Hublot Big Bang One Click Sapphire Skeleton
The Hublot Big Bang One Click Sapphire Skeleton is a bold and futuristic timepiece, designed for women who appreciate avant-garde horology. With a fully transparent sapphire case, this watch creates a strong visual impact.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 39mm
- Case Material: Transparent sapphire crystal
- Movement: HUB1710 self-winding skeleton
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
Unique Features:
- Fully transparent sapphire case for a futuristic look
- “One Click” strap-changing system for easy customization
- Lightweight and scratch-resistant case material
Price:
- Brand New: $75,000
- Pre-Owned: $55,000 to $65,000
Appreciation Value: Hublot sapphire models have appreciated by 5 to 12%.
5. Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin
Piaget’s Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin is a refined and delicate timepiece that showcases the brand’s expertise in ultra-thin watchmaking. With an airy skeletonized dial and an elegant design, this watch is perfect for women who love classic luxury.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 38mm
- Case Material: 18K rose gold or white gold
- Movement: Piaget 1200S ultra-thin self-winding skeleton
- Power Reserve: 44 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Ultra-thin skeleton movement at only 2.4mm thickness
- Elegant, minimalistic openwork dial with refined finishing
- Sapphire crystal back revealing the full movement
Price:
- Brand New: $65,000 to $75,000
- Pre-Owned: $50,000 to $60,000
Appreciation Value: Piaget ultra-thin skeleton models have shown a 7to 10% appreciation rate.
6. Richard Mille RM 07-01 Automatic Skeleton
The Richard Mille RM 07-01 is a high-tech luxury timepiece that has an avant-garde skeletonized movement inside an elegant tonneau-shaped case.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 31.4mm x 45.66mm
- Case Material: Carbon TPT, rose gold, or ceramic
- Movement: CRMA2 automatic skeletonized movement
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Unique Features:
- Distinctive tonneau-shaped case for a bold and elegant look
- Skeletonized movement with an innovative variable-geometry rotor
- Lightweight, high-performance materials like Carbon TPT and ceramic
Price:
- Brand New: $200,000 to $250,000 (varies by material)
- Pre-Owned: $180,000 to $220,000
Appreciation Value: Richard Mille watches are known for their exclusivity, appreciating 15 to 30%.
7. Chopard Happy Sport Oval Skeleton
The Chopard Happy Sport Oval Skeleton is adorned with playful floating diamonds with a skeletonized movement, creating an elegant and whimsical timepiece.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 31mm x 36mm
- Case Material: 18K white gold or rose gold with diamonds
- Movement: L.U.C 96.17-S automatic skeletonized movement
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized movement combined with floating diamonds for a dazzling effect
- Ultra-thin automatic movement with Geneva Seal finishing
- Sapphire case back showcasing intricate engravings
Price:
- Brand New: $85,000 to $100,000
- Pre-Owned: $65,000 to $80,000
Appreciation Value: Chopard skeletonized models see 8 to 12% appreciation.
8. Vacheron Constantin Égérie Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Skeleton is a stunning fusion of haute horology and feminine elegance. With an asymmetric design and a fully skeletonized movement, this skeleton watch is a true masterpiece.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 37mm
- Case Material: 18K white gold with diamonds
- Movement: Caliber 5460 manual-winding skeletonized movement
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Off-center dial with a lace-inspired openwork movement
- Hand-engraved skeletonized bridges for ultimate transparency
- Precious gem-setting on bezel and lugs
Price:
- Brand New: $90,000 to $120,000
- Pre-Owned: $75,000 to $95,000
Appreciation Value: Vacheron Constantin skeleton watches appreciate 10 to 15%.
9. Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Celestial Skeleton
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Celestial Skeleton is an artistic take on skeletonization. It has an openwork movement with a mesmerizing celestial complication that displays a starry sky.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 37.5mm
- Case Material: 18K white gold with diamonds
- Movement: Caliber 849ASQ manual-winding skeleton movement
- Power Reserve: 45 hours
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Unique Features:
- Skeletonized celestial dial with rotating night sky disc
- Hand-finished engravings and diamond-set bezel
- Sapphire crystal case back showcasing movement details
Price:
- Brand New: $110,000 to $130,000
- Pre-Owned: $85,000 to $100,000
Appreciation Value: 8 to 12% appreciation rate, particularly for limited-production runs.
10. Breguet Reine de Naples 8978 Skeleton
The Breguet Reine de Naples 8978 Skeleton is a refined and historically inspired watch. It features the brand’s signature oval case shape, enhanced by a fully skeletonized movement.
Technical Specifications:
- Case Size: 36.5mm x 28.45mm
- Case Material: 18K rose gold or white gold with diamonds
- Movement: Caliber 537/3 self-winding skeletonized movement
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Water Resistance: 30 meters
Unique Features:
- Signature oval case inspired by the watch made for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples
- Skeletonized movement with intricate hand engravings
- Moon phase complication with a beautifully crafted display
Price:
- Brand New: $75,000 to $95,000
- Pre-Owned: $60,000 to $75,000
Appreciation Value: Breguet watches hold strong value, with an appreciation value of 7 to 12%.
Tips for Buying a Luxury Skeleton Watch
Open face watches are significant investments. Here are essential tips to help you choose the best skeleton watch for you:
1. Check the movement quality: Since a skeleton watch exposes its movement, top-quality finishing and craftsmanship are crucial. Look for fine details like hand-engraving, polished edges, and symmetrical bridges. Swiss-made and high-end Japanese movements are often the best choices.
2. Choose a trusted brand: Luxury watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Richard Mille, and Hublot create some of the finest skeleton watches. If you're looking for more budget-friendly options, brands like Tissot and Hamilton offer well-crafted skeleton models.
3. Check the case material and durability: Skeleton watches come in stainless steel, titanium, gold, ceramic, and carbon fiber. Titanium and carbon fiber are lightweight and durable while gold and platinum offer a more luxurious appeal.
4. Look at the dial legibility: Some skeleton watches can be hard to read due to their openwork design. Choose one with clear hour markers, luminescent hands, or contrasting colors for better legibility.
5. Consider the power reserve: Automatic skeleton watches usually have a 38 to 72-hour power reserve, while manually wound ones may offer even longer durations.
6. Water resistance matters: Most skeleton watches have 30 to 50 meters of water resistance, which is ideal for daily wear. However, to be safe, do not immerse the watch in water.
7. Check the price and resale value: Luxury skeleton watches hold or increase in value over time, especially from high-end brands. If investing, research the market demand and appreciation percentage before purchasing.
8. Decide between contemporary vs. classic designs:: Some skeleton watches have a futuristic look while others maintain a classic aesthetic.
9. Buy from authorized dealers: To ensure authenticity and a manufacturer’s warranty, always buy from authorized retailers, brand boutiques, trusted resellers, or reputable auction houses.
10. Try it on before buying: Skeleton watches often have unique case shapes and sizes. Some designs, especially larger or tonneau-shaped cases, may not fit well on all wrists. Try the watch on or check the lug-to-lug measurement before purchasing.
Conclusion
A skeleton watch allows you to see the mechanical masterpiece that makes your watch tick. It harmoniously blends craftsmanship, innovation, and bold design. With watchmakers constantly pushing the boundaries—using ultra-thin movements, sapphire cases, and cutting-edge materials—skeleton watches are only getting more impressive. They’ve become a favorite among collectors, fashion-forward watch lovers, and anyone who appreciates the art of horology.
