Luxury Pocket Watches: Holding the Hands of Time

We are in an era dominated by high-tech watches. One might assume that traditional timepieces have lost their charm. However, the pocket watch market is experiencing a resurgence albeit a niche one. Recent trends indicate a growing appreciation for vintage pocket watches. In 2024, 16-size American pocket watches, especially those with 19 and 21 jewels, saw significant value increases.

This surge reflects a broader movement where people look for unique, tangible pieces of history in a fast-paced, modern world.

Luxury pocket watches are crafted with the same attention to detail and innovative techniques found in their wristwatch counterparts. Whether you’re drawn to them for their investment potential or simply as a stylish accessory, luxury pocket watches for men and women are proving they’re far from out of time.

What is a Luxury Pocket Watch?

A luxury pocket watch is a timepiece designed to be carried in a pocket rather than worn on the wrist. It often features a closed or open-faced case, a chain or fob for securing it to clothing, and a mechanical or quartz movement (the latter for more modern pocket watches) to keep time.

History of Pocket Watches

Pocket watches were widely used before wristwatches became popular in the early 20th century. It was an essential accessory for gentlemen and military officers. 

• 16th Century – The Birth of the Pocket Watch
  • The earliest portable timepieces emerged in the 1500s in Germany and Italy.
  • Peter Henlein, a German clockmaker, is credited with creating some of the first pocket-sized watches.
  • These early models were large, drum-shaped, and worn on a chain around the neck.
• 17th Century – Refinements and Popularity
  • Pocket watches became smaller and evolved into oval and rounded shapes.
  • The introduction of the balance spring (or hairspring) in 1675 by Christiaan Huygens significantly improved timekeeping accuracy.
  • Charles II of England popularized waistcoats, leading to the trend of carrying watches in pockets rather than around the neck.
• 18th Century – Advancements in Mechanisms and Craftsmanship
  • Watchmakers like Abraham-Louis Breguet developed innovations such as the self-winding mechanism and improved escapements.
  • Enamel dials, decorative engraving, and intricate cases became more common to emphasize luxury and artistry.
  • Pocket watches became essential accessories for aristocrats and wealthy individuals.
• 19th Century – Mass Production and Railroad Timekeeping
  • The Industrial Revolution allowed manufacturers to mass produce pocket watches, making them more affordable and widely available.
  • The American watch industry, led by brands such as Waltham and Elgin, revolutionized production with interchangeable parts.
  • Railroad-grade pocket watches became important for railway workers.
• 20th Century – Why Did People Stop Using Pocket Watches
  • During World War I, soldiers found wristwatches more practical, leading to a decline in pocket watch use.
  • By the mid-20th century, wristwatches had largely replaced pocket watches for everyday wear.
  • Despite the decline, pocket watches remained symbols of tradition, luxury, and craftsmanship, often passed down as heirlooms.
• 21st Century – The Revival of Luxury Pocket Watches
  • High-end watch brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet continue to produce exquisite pocket watches.

Does anyone still use a pocket watch? Yes, especially among collectors and luxury watch enthusiasts. They are prized today for their craftsmanship, historical significance, and timeless elegance. 

Differences Between Wristwatches and Pocket Watches

1. Wearability and Design

• Wristwatches: Designed to be worn on the wrist, secured with a strap or bracelet
• Pocket Watches: Carried in a coat pocket and usually attached to a chain or fob. A person must remove the watch from his pocket to check the time.

2. Convenience and Accessibility

• Wristwatches: More practical for quick time checks. You only need to glance at your wrist.
• Pocket Watches: Require an extra step to retrieve from a pocket to check time

3. Historical Evolution

• Wristwatches: Became popular in the early 20th century, particularly after World War I, due to their practicality for soldiers
• Pocket Watches: Dominated timekeeping for centuries, especially from the 16th to 19th centuries, before being largely replaced by wristwatches

4. Movement and Craftsmanship

• Wristwatches: Feature a range of movements with some providing advanced complications.
• Pocket Watches: Traditionally mechanical, often with intricate hand-crafted movements and complications like tourbillons, moon phases, and minute repeaters

5. Style and Status

• Wristwatches: Considered versatile and practical, worn as both functional accessories
• Pocket Watches: Symbolize old-world charm, elegance, and heritage, often regarded as collector’s items or heirlooms

6. Use in Modern Times

• Wristwatches: Still the standard for everyday wear
• Pocket Watches: Mostly used for special occasions, historical reenactments, or by collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate vintage timepieces

Best Luxury Pocket Watch Brands

Pocket watches have long been cherished for their elegance and intricate craftsmanship. Below of the best pocket watches we can recommend. We will also include estimated pocket watch prices, both brand new and pre-owned.

1. Patek Philippe Open-Face Pocket Watch 18k Yellow Gold

 

Patek Philippe, a paragon of Swiss watchmaking since 1839, is known for its exceptional craftsmanship and timeless designs.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: 18k yellow gold
  • Dial: White enamel
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
• Special Features: This model exemplifies traditional watchmaking with a minimalist design.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $42,500
• Pre-Owned Price: Varies based on condition and provenance

2. Omega Specialties Olympic Pocket Watch 1932

Omega, established in 1848, has a storied history as the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games. The brand produces timepieces that blend precision with heritage.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: Polished white gold
  • Dial: White enamel
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
  • Functions: Small seconds, chronograph with column wheel, rattrapante
• Special Features: Limited to 100 pieces, this mechanical pocket watch commemorates Omega's Olympic legacy with a design inspired by the 1932 games.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $109,000
• Pre-Owned Price: Dependent on market demand and condition; prices may appreciate due to rarity.

3. Audemars Piguet Pocket Watch

Founded in 1875, Audemars Piguet is synonymous with innovation and excellence in watchmaking. The brand produces timepieces that are both technically advanced and aesthetically refined.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: Varies by model; often precious metals
  • Dial: Typically features intricate detailing
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
• Special Features: Known for complex movements and limited production, Audemars Piguet mechanical pocket watches include complications such as minute repeaters and perpetual calendars.
• Brand New Price: Prices vary; high-end models can reach several hundred thousand dollars.
• Pre-Owned Price: Dependent on model rarity and condition

4. Tissot Savonnette Pocket Watch

Established in 1853, Tissot offers watches with traditional yet innovative timepieces at relatively accessible prices.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: White with Arabic numerals
  • Movement: Quartz
• Special Features: This model offers a classic design, featuring a date display and Swiss quartz accuracy.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $200
• Pre-Owned Price: Typically slightly lower than new, around $150 to $180

5. Hamilton American Classic Railroad Pocket Watch

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Hamilton American Classic Railroad Pocket Watch

Founded in 1892, Hamilton has a rich history of producing precise timepieces for the American railroad system.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: White with black numerals
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
• Special Features: Designed as an homage to vintage railroad watches, it features a robust build and reliable movement.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $1,200
• Pre-Owned Price: Around $900-$1,100

6. Breguet Classique 'Grande Complication' 1907

Founded in 1775, Breguet is renowned for its elegant designs, often incorporating intricate complications.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: 18k gold
  • Dial: White enamel with Breguet numerals
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
  • Complications: Tourbillon, minute repeater
• Special Features: This timepiece showcases a tourbillon and a minute repeater with visible hammers on the dial.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $500,000
• Pre-Owned Price: Varies based on condition and provenance; consult reputable dealers

7. Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260

Established in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch manufacturers, known for producing highly complicated and luxurious timepieces.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: 18k white gold
  • Dial: Multiple sub-dials displaying various functions
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
  • Complications: 57 complications including perpetual calendar, chronograph, and astronomical indications
• Special Features: The Reference 57260 is one of the most complicated watches ever made, featuring an unprecedented 57 complications.
• Brand New Price: Estimated at $8 million
• Pre-Owned Price: Due to its uniqueness, pre-owned prices are speculative and would likely be at a premium.

8. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

Founded in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has inventive designs and technical prowess. The Reverso line is particularly iconic.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: Pink gold
  • Dial: Dual-sided with chronograph function
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
  • Complications: Chronograph
• Special Features: The Reverso Tribute Chronograph features a unique reversible case, allowing the wearer to switch between two distinct dials.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $66,000
• Pre-Owned Price: Dependent on condition and market demand; typically retains strong value.

9. Bovet Fleurier Amadeo Pocket Watch

Since 1822, Bovet has been known for its artistic watches, producing timepieces that often feature hand-painted dials and intricate engravings.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: 18k red gold
  • Dial: Hand-painted enamel
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
  • Complications: Perpetual calendar, tourbillon
• Special Features: The Amadeo system allows the watch to transform between a pocket watch, wristwatch, and table clock, offering versatile wearability.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $350,000
• Pre-Owned Price: Varies based on condition and rarity; consult reputable dealers.

10. Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch 1911

Founded in 1832, Longines has a rich history of producing elegant timepieces for equestrian sports.

• Technical Specifications:
  • Case Material: 18k rose gold
  • Dial: White enamel with Roman numerals
  • Movement: Mechanical hand-wound
• Special Features: This model is a reissue of a 1911 pocket watch, featuring a hunter-style case and classic design elements.
• Brand New Price: Approximately $15,000
• Pre-Owned Price: Typically ranges from $10,000 to $14,000

How to Choose the Right Pocket Watches for You?

Choosing the right luxury pocket watch for sale depends on your style, needs, and budget. Here are key factors to consider:

1. How do you want to use it?

• Everyday use: Opt for a sturdy, reliable quartz or mechanical movement with a simple design.
• Collectible investment: Look for vintage or limited-edition models from prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin.
• Gift or heirloom: Consider classic designs with engravable cases.

2. Choose between a mechanical or quartz pocket watch.

• Mechanical (Hand-Wound): Traditional craftsmanship with intricate movements but requires regular winding
• Quartz: Powered by a pocket watch battery, low-maintenance, and highly accurate

3. Choose the case material.

• Gold or platinum: Luxurious and valuable but expensive
• Silver or stainless steel: Durable and stylish, ideal for both casual and formal settings
• Brass or titanium: Affordable and lightweight options

4. Decide on the style.

• Open-face: Minimalist design with no protective cover
• Hunter case: A hinged cover to protect the dial
• Half-hunter case: Comes with a small viewing window for quick time-checking
• Double-hunter: Two covers, allowing visibility of both the front and movement

5. Consider the movement and features.

• Complications: Look for additional features such as chronographs, moon phases, or tourbillons for added sophistication.
• Engraving and customization: Many pocket watches allow personal engravings, making them special keepsakes.

6. Set a budget.

• Affordable (Under $500): Reliable options from brands such as Tissot or Charles-Hubert
• Mid-range ($500–$5,000): High-quality mechanical watches from brands such as Longines or Omega
• Luxury ($5,000+): Collectible and heirloom pieces from Patek Philippe, Breguet, or Audemars Piguet.

7. Buy from a reputable source.

• Authorized dealers: Guarantee authenticity and warranties
• Auction houses: Great for rare and vintage pieces but require careful research
• Online retailers: Ensure they have a good reputation and return policies.

Where to Find Luxury Pocket Watches for Sale?

Looking for a luxury pocket watch for sale? Here’s where to look:

1. Authorized Dealers and Brand Boutiques

If you’re buying a new luxury or modern pocket watch, it’s best to go directly to the manufacturer or an authorized retailer. You can enjoy advantages such as assured authenticity of the timepiece, warranty, and after-sales service.

• Brands such as  Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet sell pocket watches through their boutiques.
• High-end watch retailers such as Tourneau, Watches of Switzerland, or Wempe carry select models.

2. Online Luxury Watch Retailers

Many reputable online stores offer a wide selection of both modern and vintage pocket watches:

3. Auction Houses

For rare and collectible pocket watches, auctions are an excellent choice. You can find rare, investment-worthy pieces.

• Sotheby’s, Christie’s, and Phillips often feature rare pocket watches from brands such as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.
• Heritage auctions – A great source for vintage American pocket watches such as Hamilton or Waltham

4. Vintage and Antique Watch Shops

Many vintage watch dealers specialize in restoring and selling classic pocket watches:

• Hodinkee Shop – Occasionally sells curated vintage pocket watches
• WatchesToBuy.com – Offers restored vintage timepieces
• Local antique stores – Can be a hidden gem for finding unique vintage pieces

5. Specialty Watch Forums & Groups

Watch enthusiasts often buy and sell pocket watches in private communities. These are ideal for trusted transactions within a watch community.

• WatchUSeek Forums
• The Rolex Forums for high-end pocket watches
• Reddit r/Watchexchange for fair market deals

6. Local Jewelers and Pawn Shops

Some jewelers and pawn shops carry vintage and pre-owned pocket watches, sometimes at great prices. You can find great deals on pre-owned pocket watches, but this requires authentication checks.

Are Luxury Pocket Watches Worth the Investment?

Luxury pocket watches hold a unique place in the world of horology. They may not be as commonly worn as wristwatches today. Yet their craftsmanship, history, and rarity make them highly desirable among collectors and enthusiasts. Thus, if you choose wisely, a luxury pocket watch can be a timeless asset.