Tudor Black Bay Watches: 6 Decades of Excellence

For over 60 years, Tudor has established itself as a trusted name in professional diving timepieces. The brand offers the same reliability as its more expensive Rolex counterpart. In 2012, Tudor introduced the Black Bay collection, a modern revival of its iconic dive watch designs but infused with contemporary technology and aesthetics.

The Black Bay series has since grown into one of the most versatile and sought-after collections in the watch world. 

So, is the Tudor Black Bay watch for you?

What Is the Tudor Black Bay Collection?

The Tudor Black Bay collection is a line of luxury dive watches. First introduced in 2012, the Black Bay series is heavily inspired by Tudor’s vintage dive watches from the 1950s and 1960s, particularly the iconic Tudor Submariner.

These dive watches are filled with modern innovations. Over the past decade, it has become one of the brand’s most celebrated collections.

The Evolution of the Black Bay Series

The Tudor Black Bay series traces its origins to the brand’s long history of crafting durable and reliable dive watches. While the collection was officially introduced in 2012, its design DNA is deeply rooted in Tudor’s vintage Submariners from the 1950s to the 1980s. 

1954 to 1999: The Foundation – Tudor’s Early Dive Watches

Before the Black Bay, Tudor had already built a legacy of producing high-quality dive watches, often referred to as the "Submariner Alternative."

• 1954 – Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner (Ref. 7922) 

• Tudor’s first dive watch, with a design heavily inspired by the Rolex Submariner. It has a water resistance factor of 100m.

• 1958 – "Big Crown" Tudor Submariner (Ref. 7924) 

• Featured an 8mm crown and increased water resistance to 200m

• 1969 – The Introduction of Snowflake Hands 

• The Ref. 7016 and 7021 introduced the now-iconic "Snowflake" hands, designed for better underwater legibility.

• These models were widely used by the French Navy (Marine Nationale) and have influenced modern Black Bay watches.

• 1980s – Tudor Dive Watches in the Military 

• Tudor continued to supply dive watches to military forces, refining their durability and reliability.

Tudor temporarily discontinued its Submariner line in the late 1990s. This paved the way for a fresh interpretation of the brand’s heritage in the 21st century.

2012 to Present: The Birth and Growth of the Black Bay Collection

The Black Bay series was officially launched in 2012 as part of Tudor’s effort to revive its classic dive watch design while incorporating modern technology.

2012 – The First Black Bay (Ref. 79220R)

• Featured a 41mm stainless steel case, a domed crystal, and an ETA-based movement

• Introduced the burgundy bezel, giving it a distinct vintage appeal

• Won the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Revival Prize in 2013

2016 – Introduction of In-House Calibers

• Tudor replaced the ETA movement with its own MT5602 caliber, featuring a 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification.

• The Black Bay Dark (PVD-coated case) and Black Bay Bronze (Ref. 79250BM) were also introduced.

2018 – Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58)

• Inspired by the 1958 Tudor Submariner, featuring a smaller 39mm case for vintage proportions.

• Powered by the MT5402 in-house movement with a 70-hour power reserve

• Became one of the most popular Black Bay models among luxury watch collectors

2018-2022 – Expansion into GMT and Chronographs

• Black Bay GMT (Ref. 79830RB) introduced a Pepsi watch bezel and dual-time function

• Black Bay Chrono (2017, updated in 2021) combined Black Bay design with a chronograph function, powered by a Breitling-based movement

2023 – Black Bay Pro and Master Chronometer Certification

• Black Bay Pro launched with a fixed 24-hour bezel, inspired by the Tudor Ranger and Rolex Explorer II.

• The Black Bay 54 (37mm) revived classic vintage dive watch proportions.

• New METAS-certified Black Bay models were introduced, featuring Tudor’s most precise and robust in-house movements to date.

Signature Features of the Black Bay Watches

Drawing inspiration from Tudor’s historical dive watches, the Black Bay models have several signature elements that set them apart.

1. Iconic Snowflake Hands

One of the most recognizable features of the Black Bay collection is the "Snowflake" hour hand, a design originally introduced in the late 1960s for the Tudor Submariner.

• Improves legibility underwater

• A nod to Tudor’s heritage, particularly its watches used by the French Navy (Marine Nationale)

2. Domed Dial and Crystal

• The domed sapphire crystal enhances the vintage appeal while offering scratch resistance.

• The slightly domed dial gives depth and dimension to the watch face, inspired by vintage Tudor dive watches.

3. Large Oversized Crown ("Big Crown")

• The screw-down Big Crown, inspired by the 1958 Tudor Submariner (Ref. 7924), improves water resistance and ease of use.

• Some models feature a rose Tudor logo engraved on the crown, a subtle tribute to the brand’s early designs.

4. Water Resistance of 200m or More

• Most Black Bay models boast a minimum of 200m water resistance, making them reliable dive watches.

• Some versions, such as the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, retain the classic 200m rating. Others, such as the Black Bay Pro, offer GMT functionality in a dive-ready package.

5. Heritage-Style Bezel

• The Black Bay watches often feature a unidirectional rotating bezel, a key element in dive watches for tracking elapsed time.

• Variations include: 

• Aluminum bezels for a vintage feel (Black Bay 58, Black Bay 41)

• Pepsi-colored GMT bezels for dual-time functionality (Black Bay GMT)

• Bronze bezels for a patina effect over time (Black Bay Bronze)

6. Riveted Bracelet with Vintage Appeal

• Inspired by the 1950s to 1970s Tudor bracelets, the Black Bay’s riveted steel bracelet features exposed rivets on the sides, giving it a retro look.

• Some models offer alternative strap options, including fabric NATO-style straps and rubber or leather bands.

7. In-House Automatic Movements

Since 2016, Tudor has equipped most Black Bay models with in-house calibers, providing superior precision and power reserves.

• MT5602 (No-Date Models) – Used in classic Black Bay watches, featuring a 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification

• MT5652 (GMT Models) – Offers dual-time functionality with a jumping local hour hand

• MT5813 (Chronograph Models) – A Tudor-modified movement based on the Breitling B01 caliber

8. Case Sizes and Material Variety

Tudor Black Bay watches come in different case sizes and materials, catering to various wrist sizes and preferences.

• Classic Black Bay (41mm) – Standard dive watch proportions

• Black Bay Fifty-Eight (39mm) – A vintage-inspired, smaller version for a retro look

• Black Bay Pro (39mm) – Features a fixed GMT bezel and rugged tool-watch aesthetics

• Black Bay 54 (37mm) – Tudor’s smallest modern dive watch, closest to vintage 1950s proportions

• Material Options: Stainless steel, bronze, two-tone steel and gold, and full gold models

9. No Crown Guards for a Vintage Look

Unlike many modern dive watches, the Black Bay series omits crown guards, staying true to the clean case design of early Tudor dive watches from the 1950s and 1960s.

10. METAS-Certified Master Chronometer Models

In recent years, Tudor has introduced METAS-certified Black Bay watches. The certification ensures 

• 5-second daily accuracy range (-2/+4 seconds)

• Anti-magnetic resistance up to 15,000 Gauss

• Enhanced movement durability

Tudor Black Bay Watch Range

Tudor’s Black Bay series offers a diverse range of models. Let's check them out:

1. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58)

The Tudor BB Fifty-Eight (BB58) is a vintage-inspired dive watch paying homage to the 1958 Tudor Submariner (Ref. 7924). With its 39mm case, it offers a more compact and period-correct design.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 39mm stainless steel

• Bezel: Aluminum insert, unidirectional rotating

• Dial: Matte black with gilt accents (varies by edition)

• Movement: MT5402 in-house automatic

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• Smaller 39mm case for vintage appeal

• Slimmer profile than the standard Black Bay models

• Available in different variants (e.g., Black, Blue, 18K Gold, Bronze)

Tudor Black Bay 58 Price:

• Brand New: $4,000 - $5,000

• Pre-Owned: $3,500 - $4,500

2. Tudor Black Bay GMT

A direct competitor to the Rolex GMT-Master II, the Tudor Black Bay GMT features a Pepsi bezel and true GMT functionality, making it a practical tool watch for frequent travelers.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 41mm stainless steel

• Bezel: Red & Blue "Pepsi" aluminum insert

• Dial: Matte black with Snowflake hands

• Movement: MT5652 in-house GMT movement

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• Independent jumping hour hand for true GMT functionality

• Pepsi bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex GMT models

• Available on a riveted bracelet, leather strap, or fabric strap

Pricing:

• Brand New: $4,500 - $5,000

• Pre-Owned: $3,800 - $4,500

3. Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Having the traditional look of a dive watch but with an added chronograph complication, the Black Bay Chrono is powered by a Breitling-based movement.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 41mm stainless steel

• Bezel: Fixed stainless steel with tachymeter scale

• Dial: Panda or Reverse Panda

• Movement: MT5813 automatic chronograph (Breitling B01 base)

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• A dive watch-inspired chronograph

• COSC-certified chronometer movement

• Vintage-style pushers and tachymeter scale

Pricing:

• Brand New: $5,000 - $5,500

• Pre-Owned: $4,000 - $4,800

4. Tudor Black Bay Pro

Inspired by the Rolex Explorer II (Ref. 1655), the Black Bay Pro is a rugged tool watch with a fixed 24-hour bezel and GMT functionality.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 39mm stainless steel

• Bezel: Fixed steel 24-hour bezel

• Dial: Matte black with Snowflake hands

• Movement: MT5652 in-house GMT movement

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• Compact 39mm case with a rugged design

• Fixed bezel reminiscent of vintage Explorer II

• True GMT movement with a jumping hour hand

Pricing:

• Brand New: $4,200 - $4,500

• Pre-Owned: $3,700 - $4,200

5. Tudor Black Bay 54

The smallest Black Bay model, the Tudor BB54 features a 37mm case, making it the most faithful modern re-creation of the 1958 Tudor Submariner.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 37mm stainless steel

• Bezel: Aluminum insert, unidirectional

• Dial: Matte black with Snowflake hands

• Movement: MT5400 in-house automatic

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• Closest to vintage Tudor Submariners in proportions

• Slim, compact, and highly wearable

• Great for smaller wrists or those who prefer vintage sizing

Pricing:

• Brand New: $3,900 - $4,200

• Pre-Owned: $3,500 - $4,000

6. Tudor Black Bay Bronze

The Tudor Black Bay Bronze is a unique take on the Black Bay. It has a 43mm bronze case that develops a natural patina over time, creating a one-of-a-kind look for each wearer.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 43mm bronze

• Bezel: Bronze-colored aluminum insert

• Dial: Gradient brown with gold accents

• Movement: MT5601 in-house automatic

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• Patina-developing bronze case, giving each watch a unique look

• Larger 43mm case for a more rugged presence

• Special fabric or leather straps inspired by vintage dive gear

Pricing:

• Brand New: $4,600 - $5,000

• Pre-Owned: $3,800 - $4,500

7. Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer (METAS-Certified)

The latest evolution of the Black Bay with METAS certification, ensuring extreme accuracy and magnetic resistance.

Technical Specifications:

• Case Size: 41mm stainless steel

• Bezel: Unidirectional aluminum insert

• Dial: Matte black with applied indices

• Movement: MT5602-U (METAS-certified automatic)

• Power Reserve: 70 hours

• Water Resistance: 200m

Unique Characteristics:

• METAS-certified Master Chronometer, accurate within -2/+4 seconds per day

• Resistant to 15,000 Gauss (extreme anti-magnetism)

• One of Tudor’s most precise and reliable Black Bay models

Pricing:

• Brand New: $4,800 - $5,200

• Pre-Owned: $4,200 - $4,800

Beware of Fake Tudor Black Bay

The Tudor Black Bay collection is a ripe target for counterfeiters. Here’s a detailed guide to help you authenticate a Tudor Black Bay before purchasing.

1. Verify the serial and reference numbers.

• Every genuine Tudor watch has a unique serial number and reference number engraved on the case.

• The engraving should be crisp, deeply etched, and precise. Fake watches often have shallow, uneven, or misaligned engravings.

• Cross-check the reference number with Tudor’s official catalog or an authorized dealer.

2. Examine the case and build quality.

• Material Quality: Authentic Tudor Black Bay watches use high-quality 904L stainless steel or bronze, which feels solid and well-finished.

• Bezel Functionality: 

• The bezel should have 120 clicks (dive models) and rotate smoothly.

• Fake bezels may be loose, misaligned, or have an incorrect number of clicks.

• Crown Details: 

• Look for the Tudor Rose or Shield logo on the crown.

• The threading should be smooth and precise, not wobbly or rough.

3. Inspect the dial and hands.

• Snowflake Hands: The signature Snowflake hour hand should be crisp, symmetrical, and proportionate. Many fakes have thicker or misaligned hands.

• Text and Printing: 

• The "Tudor Geneve" logo should be sharp, evenly spaced, and perfectly aligned.

• Counterfeits often have blurry, misprinted, or uneven text.

• Lume Quality: 

• Genuine Black Bay watches use high-quality Swiss Super-LumiNova, which glows brightly and consistently in the dark.

• Fake watches may have weak or inconsistent lume.

4. Check the movement (automatic vs. quartz).

• Most authentic Black Bay models use Tudor's in-house automatic movements or modified ETA movements (pre-2016 models).

• A smooth sweeping seconds hand (not ticking) indicates a mechanical movement.

• If the second hand ticks per second, it’s likely a fake with a quartz movement.

Pro Tip: If possible, have a watchmaker open the case back to inspect the movement. A real Black Bay will have a well-decorated in-house movement with a Tudor rotor.

5. Look at the bracelet and strap details.

• The riveted bracelet (for Black Bay 58 and Black Bay GMT) should feel solid and well-constructed.

• Engravings on the clasp should be sharp and well-defined, not lightly etched or inconsistent.

• The Tudor logo on the clasp should be perfectly centered—misalignment is a red flag.

6. Compare prices. Is the price too good to be true?

• A brand-new Tudor Black Bay typically costs $3,800 to $5,500.

• If a seller offers a "new" Black Bay for $1,500 or less, it’s likely a scam.

• Check pricing with authorized dealers, reputable resellers, and reliable platforms.

7. Buy from trusted sources.

• Authorized Tudor Dealers (ADs)

• Reputable Online Marketplaces

• Local Watch Dealers

Avoid:

• Sellers with no history or reviews on eBay or Craigslist

• Private sellers offering deals that seem too cheap or asking for wire transfers only

• Watches without original box, papers, or warranty card

8. Request an official authentication.

• Get the watch authenticated by a professional before buying, especially for pre-owned purchases.

• Tudor watches can be verified by authorized dealers, independent watchmakers, or watch authentication services.

Why Choose a Tudor Black Bay?

The Tudor BlackBay collection speaks volumes of heritage, craftsmanship, and value. It's a perfect choice for both collectors and everyday wearers. 

The Black Bay is built for performance and reliability. These watches are engineered to last. The meticulous attention to detail makes the Black Bay a great investment and a cool accessory to your lifestyle.