There’s something undeniably captivating about a mechanical watch. Unlike their quartz-powered or battery-powered counterparts, mechanical timepieces run on a delicate ballet of gears, springs, and levers. The charm of a purely mechanical timekeeper often surpasses that of the best smart watches.
In fact, did you know that Swiss mechanical watch exports grew by over 13% in the last year alone, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry? That’s proof that these classic marvels are here to stay.
What makes mechanical watches so special, and which models deserve a spot in your collection? In this guide, we'll take a look at the ticking world of gears and springs of a mechanical watch. We’ll also show you some of the finest mechanical watches available today.
What is a Mechanical Watch?
A mechanical watch is a timepiece powered by an intricate, precisely engineered gear-and-spring mechanism rather than a battery.
What sets mechanical watches apart is their craftsmanship and history. Each movement, or "caliber," can contain hundreds of tiny parts including gears, springs, and jewels (used as bearings). Mechanical watches are often prized for their durability, artistry, and the skill required to create and maintain them. They’re a favorite among enthusiasts who appreciate traditional watchmaking and the mechanical ingenuity behind these timepieces.
The Mechanical Watch Movement: How It Works
A mechanical movement operates through a carefully orchestrated system of gears, springs, and levers that work together to measure time.
1. The Power Source: The Mainspring
- The mainspring is the heart of the mechanical movement. It stores energy when wound manually (in a manual watch) or automatically via a rotor (in an automatic watch). As the mainspring unwinds, it releases the stored energy gradually, providing the power to drive the movement.
2. Energy Transmission: Gear Train
- The gear train transfers the energy from the mainspring to the escapement. This system of precisely meshed gears reduces the mainspring's speed to a level ideal for timekeeping.
3. Regulation: The Escapement and Balance Wheel
- The escapement controls the energy release from the mainspring. It delivers power in consistent bursts, sending energy to the balance wheel.
- The balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a steady rate (measured in beats per hour). This consistent motion regulates the timing of the watch.
4. Timekeeping: Hands and Dial
- The regulated energy from the escapement is transmitted through more gears to the hour, minute, and second hands, moving them across the dial to display the time.
5. Jewel Bearings: Smooth Motion
- Synthetic jewels (often ruby) are used as bearings at critical points to minimize friction and wear. They ensure the smooth and efficient operation of moving parts.
6. Manual or Automatic Winding
- In manual watches, the wearer winds the crown to tighten the mainspring.
- In automatic watches, a rotor spins with wrist movements, winding the mainspring without manual effort.
Types of Mechanical Watches
Mechanical watches can be categorized into two main types: manual mechanical watches and automatic mechanical watches.
1. Manual Mechanical Watches (Manual Wind Up Watch)
- How They Work: These watches require the wearer to manually wind the crown to tighten the mainspring, which stores energy to power the watch. Regular winding is essential to keep the watch running.
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Key Characteristics:
- Known for their traditional appeal and craftsmanship
- Often have a slimmer case design as they do not have the additional rotor found in automatic watches
- Typically requires winding once every 24 to 48 hours although some models have longer power reserves
2. Automatic Mechanical Watches (Self Winding Watch)
- How They Work: Automatic watches use a rotor—a semicircular weight that rotates with the wearer’s wrist movements—to wind the mainspring. This eliminates the need for regular manual winding.
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Key Characteristics:
- Equipped with a rotor that spins on a pivot, winding the watch as it moves
- Ideal for everyday wearers since it stays powered with regular use
- Can also be manually wound if the watch is not worn often enough to maintain its power reserve
Advantages of Mechanical Watches
Mechanical watches offer several advantages that go beyond mere functionality:
1. Longevity and Durability
- Built to Last: With proper care and maintenance, a mechanical watch can last for generations. Many properly maintained vintage mechanical watches remain functional and are cherished as heirlooms.
- No Battery Required: Since they are powered by a mainspring, mechanical watches don’t rely on batteries.
2. Craftsmanship and Artistry
- Mechanical Ingenuity: The intricate design and assembly of a mechanical movement represent the best of horological craftsmanship and innovation.
- Appreciation of Details: Enthusiasts value the skill and artistry involved in creating complex movements such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and chronographs.
3. Aesthetic Appeal
- Timeless Design: Mechanical watches often feature elegant, classic designs that never go out of style.
- Visible Movements: Mechanical watches with skeleton, clear, or exhibition-back designs allow wearers to admire the intricate workings of the watch.
4. Environmentally Friendly
- Sustainable Power Source: Mechanical watches are powered by motion or manual winding, making them eco-friendly compared to battery-powered watches. Without batteries, they don't add to electronic waste.
5. Heritage and Prestige
- Connection to Tradition: Mechanical watches carry a sense of history and tradition that is often associated with prestigious watchmaking brands.
- Status Symbol: Wearing a mechanical watch is seen as a mark of sophistication and appreciation for fine craftsmanship.
6. Emotional Value
- Heirloom Potential: Mechanical watches often become treasured keepsakes, passed down over the years.
- Ritualistic Appeal: The act of winding a mechanical watch connects the wearer to the art of timekeeping in a tactile, meaningful way.
7. Investment Value
- Resale Potential: High-quality mechanical watches from renowned brands can retain or even increase in value over time, making them a worthwhile investment.
Our Recommendations: Best Mechanical Watches
Here are our recommendations for the best mechanical watches. The last 5 in this list are high-quality but affordable mechanical watches.
1. Rolex Submariner: A legendary dive watch known for its durability, robust design, exceptional performance, and timeless appeal
- Reference Number: 126610LN
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 3235
- Case: 41mm Oystersteel
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Power Reserve: ~70 hours
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Key Features:
- Unidirectional Cerachrom bezel
- Chromalight display for exceptional legibility
- Glidelock clasp for micro-adjustments
- Brand New Price Range: $9,000–$10,000
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $11,000–$13,000
- Appreciation Value: ~20% increase over the past five years
2. Omega Speedmaster Professional "Moonwatch": This iconic chronograph earned its place in history as the first watch worn on the moon
- Reference Number: 310.30.42.50.01.001
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 3861 (manual winding)
- Case: 42mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Power Reserve: ~50 hours
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Key Features:
- Hesalite or sapphire crystal options
- Tachymeter scale for speed measurements
- NASA-certified for space missions
- Brand New Price Range: $6,500–$7,000
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $5,500–$6,500
- Appreciation Value: ~10% over the past decade, with limited editions appreciating more
3. Patek Philippe Nautilus: Known as the pinnacle of luxury sports watches, the Nautilus is prized for its rarity and elegant design.
- Reference Number: 5711/1A-010
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 26-330 S C
- Case: 40mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 120m
- Power Reserve: ~45 hours
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Key Features:
- Slim profile with an integrated bracelet.
- Iconic porthole-shaped case design.
- Exquisite finishing and high attention to detail.
- Brand New Price Range: $30,000–$40,000 (market premium exceeds MSRP)
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $100,000–$150,000
- Appreciation Value: ~300% over the past decade due to limited availability
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: The first luxury sports watch in stainless steel, the Royal Oak remains a groundbreaking and popular design.
- Reference Number: 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 4302
- Case: 41mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Power Reserve: ~70 hours
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Key Features:
- Iconic octagonal bezel with visible screws
- Grande Tapisserie dial pattern
- Integrated bracelet with seamless flow
- Brand New Price Range: $28,000–$33,000
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $45,000–$65,000
- Appreciation Value: ~60% over the past five years
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso: A classic Art Deco-inspired watch with a unique reversible case design
- Reference Number: Q3848420
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 822/2 (manual winding)
- Case: 45.6mm x 27.4mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: ~42 hours
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Key Features:
- Reversible case for dual-sided customization
- Slim and elegant design
- Hand-finished movement
- Brand New Price Range: $6,000–$8,500
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $4,000–$6,500
- Appreciation Value: ~15% over the past five years
6. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight: A vintage-inspired dive watch with excellent performance
- Reference Number: M79030N-0001
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber MT5402
- Case: 39mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Power Reserve: ~70 hours
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Key Features:
- Domed sapphire crystal
- Rivet-style bracelet for a retro aesthetic
- COSC-certified chronometer
- Brand New Price Range: $3,700–$4,000
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $3,200–$3,800
- Appreciation Value: ~8% over the past five years
7. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII: A clean and robust pilot’s watch
- Reference Number: IW327009
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 35111
- Case: 40mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 60m
- Power Reserve: ~42 hours
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Key Features:
- Anti-magnetic soft-iron inner case
- Sleek and minimalistic design
- Date display for everyday functionality
- Brand New Price Range: $4,000–$4,500
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $3,000–$3,800
- Appreciation Value: ~5% over the past five years
8. Longines Master Collection: A timeless dress watch with classic styling and modern mechanics
- Reference Number: L2.673.4.78.3
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber L687
- Case: 40mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: ~54 hours
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Key Features:
- Moonphase complication
- Guilloché dial with blued steel hands
- Transparent case back
- Brand New Price Range: $2,200–$3,000
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $1,500–$2,500
- Appreciation Value: ~2% annually for classic models
9. Oris Aquis Date: A functional and stylish dive watch offering excellent value for money
- Reference Number: 01 733 7730 4135-07 8 24 05PEB
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Oris Caliber 733
- Case: 43.5mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Power Reserve: ~38 hours
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Key Features:
- Ceramic bezel insert.
- High-contrast dial for underwater legibility
- Integrated bracelet with secure clasp
- Brand New Price Range: $2,000–$2,500
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $1,200–$1,800
- Appreciation Value: ~5% for special editions
10. Tag Heuer Carrera: A versatile chronograph with sporty styling
- Reference Number: CBM2110.BA0651
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 16
- Case: 41mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Power Reserve: ~42 hours
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Key Features:
- Chronograph functionality.
- Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
- Sleek modern design.
- Brand New Price Range: $3,500–$5,000
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $2,800–$3,800
- Appreciation Value: ~4% annually.
11. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical: A rugged and minimalist field watch with a military aesthetic
- Reference Number: H69439931
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: H-50 (manual winding)
- Case: 38mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Power Reserve: ~80 hours
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Key Features:
- Matte dial with vintage-style lume
- Lightweight and compact case design
- Canvas strap for outdoor durability
- Brand New Price Range: $400–$600
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $300–$500
- Appreciation Value: ~3% annually for limited editions
12. Seiko Prospex "Turtle": A dive watch offering excellent performance and an iconic cushion-shaped case
- Reference Number: SRP777
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 4R36
- Case: 45mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 200m
- Power Reserve: ~41 hours
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Key Features:
- ISO-certified dive watch
- Day/date complication
- LumiBrite hands and markers for superior visibility
- Brand New Price Range: $400–$600
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $300–$500
- Appreciation Value: ~5% for rare colorways
13. Orient Bambino: A stylish dress watch offering exceptional value for first-time mechanical watch owners
- Reference Number: FAC00009N0
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber F6724
- Case: 40.5mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: ~40 hours
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Key Features:
- Domed crystal for a vintage feel
- Date display.
- Available in various dial colors
- Brand New Price Range: $150–$300
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $100–$200
- Appreciation Value: ~2% annually for classic variants
14. Tissot Le Locle Powermatic 80: A sophisticated dress watch with modern mechanics and heritage-inspired design
- Reference Number: T006.407.16.053.00
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Powermatic 80
- Case: 39.3mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Power Reserve: ~80 hours
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Key Features:
- Guilloché dial with Roman numerals
- Transparent case back
- Elegant leather strap
- Brand New Price Range: $500–$700
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $400–$600
- Appreciation Value: ~4% for special editions
15. Citizen Tsuyosa: A vibrant and affordable mechanical watch with a sporty yet stylish appeal
- Reference Number: NJ0150-81Z
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Technical Specifications:
- Movement: Caliber 8210
- Case: 40mm stainless steel
- Water Resistance: 50m
- Power Reserve: ~40 hours
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Key Features:
- Integrated bracelet design
- Date complication
- Vibrant dial options, including green and blue
- Brand New Price Range: $300–$500
- Pre-Owned Price Range: $250–$400
- Appreciation Value: ~3% for popular colors
Taking Care of Your Mechanical Watch
It doesn't matter if you have the best, most expensive, toughest, or most accurate mechanical watch. If you don't take care of it, it will just rot. It will completely lose its functionality and value. Fortunately, regularly taking care of your mechanical watch to ensure it remains in excellent condition is easy:
1. Regular Winding
- Manual Watches: Wind daily at the same time to maintain consistent power.
- Automatic Watches: Wear regularly or use a watch winder when not in use to keep the movement active.
- Avoid overwinding; stop when you feel resistance.
- Ensure your watch’s water resistance rating matches your activities:
- Avoid submerging non-water-resistant watches.
- Regularly check gaskets and seals for wear.
- Never use the crown or pushers while submerged.
3. Protect from Shocks
- Avoid dropping or exposing your watch to strong impacts. While it may not damage the housing, shock can damage delicate internal components.
- Remove your watch before sports or heavy physical activity unless it’s specifically designed for rugged use.
4. Avoid Magnetism
- Keep your watch away from magnetic fields such as speakers, phones, or laptops, which can affect its accuracy.
- Consider watches with anti-magnetic features.
- Wipe regularly with a microfiber cloth to remove dirt and oils.
- For water-resistant models, rinse under warm water and dry thoroughly after exposure to saltwater or chlorine.
- Get your watch serviced by a professional every 3 to 5 years.
- Servicing includes lubricating the movement, checking seals, and polishing the case.
7. Store Properly
- Use a dedicated watch box or pouch to prevent scratches and dust.
- Store in a temperature-controlled, dry environment to avoid moisture and extreme temperature changes.
8. Operate Crown with Care
- When setting the time or date, avoid excessive force on the crown.
- Adjust the date only when the watch hands are not near midnight to prevent damage to the date-change mechanism.
9. Rotate Your Collection
- If you own multiple watches, alternate wearing them to reduce wear on a single timepiece.
10. Handle Straps with Care
- For leather straps, avoid prolonged exposure to water, sweat, or direct sunlight. Doing so can cause cracking or fading.
- Replace straps when they show signs of wear.
11. Avoid Chemicals
- Keep your watch away from harsh chemicals, perfumes, or cleaning products, which can damage the case, seals, and straps.
12. Keep Documentation Safe
- Retain receipts, warranty cards, and service records to maintain your watch’s value, especially for resale or appraisal.
Conclusion
Mechanical watches have a unique and timeless appeal—they connect us to the past while remaining relevant in the modern age. They’re built to last, often passed down through generations, and have a knack for appreciating in value. Will you invest in a high-end masterpiece or discover the perfect affordable starter piece? Definitely yes! These timepieces are treasures, an art piece of horology that never fails to make a statement that never goes out of style.
